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  1. I'm interested in printing out relatively small things for tabletop gaming. Primarily miniatures, dice for creating molds for casting, and possibly also terrain. I'm getting a little overwhelmed with all the things I need, so I'm hoping to get some suggestions.

  2. Firstly, I would recommend downloading one of the slicers (lychee, chitu etc) and throwing in some of your STLs to gauge the build volumes. Smaller terrain will fit on resin printers - large terrain is commonly printed with FDM.

  3. I thought about resin but I have some concerns cuz my workspace isn’t well ventilated and I’m also living with others so I don’t want the smell to be a problem. Is it really as bad as some say? I also have some ideas for bigger stuff like swords in the future but wanted to get a solid foundation of the hobby first

  4. Yeah, you will need proper ventilation for a resin printer.

  5. The scanner would be used on a dental impression in an attempt to create a stent that minimizes radiation damage during radiotherapy. Some studies are looking at the efficacy, but this specifically is for a family member that has been recently diagnosed with oral cancer.

  6. The long-term concern is inhalation which is why ventilation is needed. Ideally, you can just have it outside the residence (ie: garage/shed etc) but it can be in a separate room if enclosed + vented.

  7. Looking for a minimal effort & maintenance printer. Preferably just load filament and press go. I've had an ender 3 for a few years, used it a bunch and want something new. Quiet would be good too.

  8. I don't have the room for a resin printer. I live in a hosueshare so the printer will have to be in my bedroom, and it has barely any ventilation.

  9. So in that case, sticking with PLA is the way to go. The

  10. I usually recommend the 60921 (widely available - general use for particulates + VOCs) or the 60926 (focused for Ammonia, Chlorine, Chlorine Dioxide, Formaldehyde, Hydrogen Chloride, Hydrogen Fluoride, Hydrogen Sulfide, Methylamine, and Sulfur Dioxide + the particulates).

  11. Would the 60923 be just as good? It's what I currently have and know nothing about filters

  12. The 60923 would be fine - that is more analogous to the 60921 but with an additional focus on acid gas - it still has the particulates + VOCs.

  13. When I get asked questions regarding this, usually my response is that carbon filters will have a

  14. Is a 60926 filter and 6200 facepiece adequate protection from Formaldehyde and Methylamine? I use fiberglass resin as finish so i need to be protected. Thanks in advance.

  15. The 60921 & 60926 are generally what we recommend since they are affordable, widely-available, and provide the correct protection - the 60926 provides focused protection against Formaldehyde & Methylamine.

  16. Do you know if 6001 filters are acceptable for normal resin printing?

  17. Those are just the organic vapor portion of the 60921 cartridge and they will be fine for dealing with the 'resin fumes'. Generally, I would still recommend going with the 60921 (organic vapor + P100 for particulates) that way you can use it for resin + sanding + painting etc.

  18. That article doesn’t talk about cured resin much though. I’m specifically trying to figure out how safe cured resin is, I’m aware the liquid stuff is bad lol

  19. Visijet Crystal is a biocompatible resin from 3D Systems that has a USP Class VI Certification for medical applications. One study exposed zebrafish embryos to Visijet Crystal cured discs that were either unwashed or washed with Ethanol. The embryos had a ≈59% survival rate when in contact with the unwashed disc and a ≈98% survival rate for the washed disc2. Visijet Crystal was the 'safest' resin in the study as the other resins used in the study had survival rates as low as ≈24%, yet it still resulted in sublethal effects such as lethargy, behavioral changes, and physical malformations.

  20. That i'm not sure about - I personally haven't used it, just know that it exists.

  21. This is really interesting, thank you! Sadly there's no good ventilation outside the room, since there's only one big window for all the house. Also I'd like something that can be used all day, since the printers are on all day long and my husband works with them at different times of the day. Is there any good air purifier on Amazon that you would recommend for our situation? Than you!

  22. Running a lithophane print on my FDM as we speak. How do they turn out in resin ?

  23. https://4dfiltration.com/assets/img/4x3/HeartLitho43.webp?h=b40241b1cede56f4c1640ae5e54ec35a

  24. Those look great! Did you print them flat on the bed or angled? My only concern is size really. Can get a much larger pic from FDM. Might have to try this though.

  25. Those were printed tilted about 30° back. You can get fairly larger prints, you just have to have a medium-sized (200mm) resin printer or select smaller ones (≈160mm width) - larges are 300mm.

  26. What’s the biggest difference between an anycubic mega s vs a Kobra?

  27. I was also leaning towards that one, currently have a wanhao duplicator i3 but I really hate leveling and futzing with it for a while every time I want to print, but I might just be dramatic

  28. It's a totally fair point. Going from say an Ender 3 to a Prusa MK3S is one of the more dramatic examples & it can make a world of difference.

  29. Curing raw resin is not a waste of time. ANY material with raw resin needs to be cured before disposal.

  30. How are you curing resin on disposable gloves? (assuming just have a uv lamp running while working & cure before taking them off?)

  31. Just run them under the UV lamp for a minute per side, same with any paper towels. not with them on, that would be a bad day.

  32. That would be ideal - I should reclarify my original statement of "just throw them away" because we just chunk them onto a table with sunlight & eventually throw them away. The rubber absorbs ≈70% of the UV but after a few days the resin is cured & then just gets chunked. Manually curing them can be a time sink, especially if you go through multiple pairs in a session. I'll make sure to clarify in more detail next time.

  33. A month ago it was at $290 but for the past two weeks or so they have held it at $205. They may jump it up to like $230 or so, but in general it should stay fairly low. The Mono 4K is the next generation printer that is replacing the regular Photon Mono that is currently being phased out. The newest one is the Photon M3, which just has more build volume. They should also have a few

  34. How thin that top section is worries me. For fdm, some ideal filaments could be petg or pp. For resin, I would probably say go with a durable resin like

  35. It’s Sirayatech Fast resin. It gets into the 90s-100s in the summer. Car can get to 140 in the sun.

  36. The HDT of that resin is ≈154°F so for short periods it is probably fine, but it could very well deform over a long period of time. It may offgass in the car but it won't melt.

  37. Not where I had all the prints but what I had on the plate. It is currently 12 celcius here but I live in Ireland so weather varies greatly

  38. Yeah so 12 is a bit too cold - generally the manufacturers suggest 20+

  39. Thank you so much for the help also would doubling the exposure be the better idea. Cause 12 degrees is high for me here

  40. You could try that to start & optimize from there, but I would still recommend getting a small heater eventually.

  41. Realistically, a mix of 10% should only need a small bump in exposure time (ie: if you are doing 2s, bump it to 2.2s and go from there). There are always a variety of factors so you'll have to do some testing.

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