BeesSolveEverything


























  1. Hey thanks for the reply! I have around 15 suction holes along the bottom of the model on the build plate. It’s also a resin print because it’s a bust of a Breaking Bad character so the detail gets very needed. Would it help to try and angle the model?

  2. Yes, angling would be good and would probably help. Also introducing a light-off delay (see the article I linked earlier) will help reduce blooming. If you do angle it, you may need to put supports along every corner to help reduce warping. Go overboard with supports. Go nuts.

  3. We're going to need pictures of the problem along with pictures of what the model should look like (in the slicer, for example).

  4. Please also share a screenshot of your print settings and the model in the slicer.

  5. At most, your light off delay should be set to around 0.5 seconds, depending on how big your model is. Smaller models may not even need a delay. A 7 second light off delay is excessive and just adds a ton of time to your print time.

  6. Different printer brands do rest/light off times differently, for my older Phrozen printers you need to enter the total time it takes for build plate to move up and down + the time you want it to rest. For the new Sonic Mini 8k you enter only the "rest" time, no need to calculate the build plate travel time. I'm not sure into which category the Sonic Mini 4k fits, but if it's on the older software then 7s is more or less perfect for rest times.

  7. Interviewing is a two-way street. They're assessing your fit for the job and you're assessing their company culture and fit for the team. It sounds like they're not a good fit for you. You have every right to withdraw. No need to feel guilty, if they treat you like that while you're working, you won't do your best. You won't be able to perform and you will damage your mental well being.

  8. Please post a picture of the model in the slicer with the supports, as well as your print settings and resin type.

  9. Is the model hollow? Layer lines like this tend to show up if a hollow model doesn't have the proper drain holes. The printer struggles to pull the model off of the FEP due to each layer creating a vacuum seal. The printer has to overcome those forces to pull the model off of the vat. This can cause shifting, warping and tearing.

  10. This might be my exact problem. The model was solid, but I read online that I could save resin by hollowing it out. I hit the hollow button with the default settings on chitubox, then I added just 2 small holes in his heels. I guess I either shouldn't have hollowed it or put more or maybe larger holes.

  11. The heels are the last thing to print. You need holes at the BEGINNING of the hollow part of the print, in this case, in his head. Otherwise you need to flip him around so that his feet are near the build plate and the holes/heels are the first things printed.

  12. Please post your printer model, print settings, and a picture of the model in the slicer with the supports.

  13. First, try reslicing the file and putting it on a different USB stick. You can also doublecheck the slice file in UVTools to see if it looks correct.

  14. Ty for all the info! <3 Sorry i can't post it now i will try to post tmr! I use anycubic craftsmen resin. i dont remember the lift speeds but i know its 1.7s expose time with 34u (i use mono 6k)

  15. If my first suggestions don't help, try printing a few exposure test prints to see if it's something to do with your settings. I've never used the craftsmen resin so I'm not familiar with what the settings should be for it.

  16. I was wondering about the exposure time. Some people say not to increase past 30 tho. I already have a raft on it.

  17. If you're having problems with prints sticking to the FEP then yes, putting a release on the FEP can help. Smaller prints may peel off of the FEP with no problem while larger prints could have issues.

  18. Yea I was originally using a anycubic mono 4k and it's default was 60 seconds. Someone told me it was way too hight but never had an issue. Supposedly burns out your mono plate quicker. I've only been doing this 3-4 weeks so no clue.

  19. Yeah they're not wrong, longer exposure times means a shorter life. But unless you want to spend slightly longer printing large blobs that doesn't matter as much.

  20. Did I not post-cure this enough? Or is the resin just not going to work for printing something this size without hollowing? (aqua 8k * siraya tenacious)

  21. Those are both possibilities. It might be best to hollow them just to be safe, but that would require that you create a hole in the model and plug it later.

  22. Judging by where the spots are, it looks like that area wasn't cleaned as well as the other places on the model. Probably because of the little mushrooms sticking out. You can try washing it again in some IPA until the shiny goes away.

  23. Thanks for the tip; I followed your advice and washed with clean IPA and brushed it with a toothbrush, dried it with a paper towel and with a fan and put it again to cure it. Some of the shine did go away, but a little bit remains, i dont think all of it will go. It's still usable for tabletop gaming?

  24. If you can somehow stick a finger in there to see if it's still tacky... maybe see if a fingernail or a toothpick will leave an indent. If it does, cure it for ~30 seconds and try again.

  25. I don't think I'm knowledgeable enough about FDM printing to give specific advice but this article might help you.

  26. Remove the FEP vat and the build plate. Place a piece of paper over the screen and run a print. If the shapes on the screen look very dim, you likely need to replace the screen.

  27. First, you should know that every time you mix resins, you will have to recalibrate your settings, unless you get the ratios 100% the same every time.

  28. I just wouldn't risk it. even if all the resin cures, you may still have microplastics in there that could get all over whatever you store inside. While not dangerous, it might ruin things like clothes, for example. Keep using that one bin for your resin waste and buy some other bins for storage.

  29. Trapped resin inside of models or uneven curing on the inner and outer surface will cause cracking, warping, and sometimes splitting and leaking.

  30. I have my printer in the garage. When not in use, all IPA and resin are kept in sealed containers. When it use, I wear gloves, eye protection, and a filter mask when in the garage. I also crack the garage door open.

  31. Unfortunately I don't have a garage or storage room in my apartment. So if I will ever buy one it has to stay in the man cave

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