1. For me it was my economics professor.. He even came out with a "new edition" each year so you couldn't get his books used. I shouldn't have been surprised.

  2. Red seems to pop a bit more I think. Looks good though, what resin do you use?

  3. Looks like you have an awesome little setup and you make really good use of the space you have. Did you build that sliding rack thing or buy it from somewhere?

  4. One side of your build plate is not level, so start with re-leveling it.

  5. Crystals are from Greenstuff World they do a variety of colours and sizes, here's mostly the small and medium lot.

  6. Yeah got some cheap £1 PVA from a super market that dries clear (test it out first) paint it on thinly over the painted green base and leave to dry overnight, can do sooner but I usually batch. This makes your base smooth, so the crackle paint has nothing to grip to and when also exposed to heat when it's drying cracks up big, showing the paint underneath in those ridges.

  7. Nice. If you want to never mess with glue sticks or have adhesion problems again you should get a PEI build plate.

  8. It's more or less completely gone! I used a piece of plywood that I wedged between the window to keep the AC in.

  9. Hatchbox black pla seems to be the best quality ive been able to get out of PLA so far. I like Esun PLA+ for functional parts, but it prints a little higher temp than hatchbox and seems a bit more stringy than Hatchbox for me so for something with detail I try and stick with hatchbox.

  10. Fully cured. I totally understand the risks for liquid resin, but I keep coming across comments saying that fully cured resin is not skin safe for long term exposure and I’m looking for more details

  11. I think these comments are coming off posts where people are asking about making resin jewelry. You shouldn't have any sensitization from touching a cured print, but it probably wouldn't be a good idea to wear a resin necklace every day. Other than that, ive never heard anyone mention sensitization about cured resin.

  12. These are only reference photos, I am going to buy resin printer, only asking if the boxes on left are good enough enclosure, of course with cutted top for ventilation.

  13. It doesnt have to be airtight, but I would try and get one single box or container that you can fit over it, and not two separate boxes stacked ontop of each other how your picture shows. While your enclosure is not going to be airtight, that double box with all the cracks around it might let too much fumes escape.

  14. Its nice having an extra screen protector for how cheap they are. Pretty in depth info on cutting your own screen protectors cheap here

  15. It's not really possible for me to vent to outside but there is an exhaust fan in this room for me to run, i have the elegoo little filter machines as well. Also I already ordered the glasses as stated in another comment. Lol I saw a 3d printing YouTube wear a mask like that I'm sure I'll live. This was just a fun post to show I have everything but the printer obviously.

  16. That mask is useless for resin fumes, you need an organic vapor filter and a respirator. I would not want to do any resin printing in a dining area, especially if you cant vent to the outside.

  17. I hope youre not using that mask for resin printing.. You need an actual respirator, that mask is doing nothing for you.

  18. If this is a space you're going to be spending time in and windows not an option, I would avoid printing.

  19. The 60921 & 60926 are generally what we recommend since they are affordable, widely-available, and provide the correct protection - the 60926 provides focused protection against Formaldehyde & Methylamine.

  20. Do you know if 6001 filters are acceptable for normal resin printing?

  21. Those are just the organic vapor portion of the 60921 cartridge and they will be fine for dealing with the 'resin fumes'. Generally, I would still recommend going with the 60921 (organic vapor + P100 for particulates) that way you can use it for resin + sanding + painting etc.

  22. My first and only resin printer so far is an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro.

  23. Scuff up the build plate with some sandpaper then clean it really good with IPA. This is what fixed my prints not sticking.

  24. Sometimes my prints get this just from drying after ipa cleaning, before ive even cured it. Any idea what that could be from? (my IPA is still pretty clean / clear)

  25. really? like just have it chill there? will it cause any issues?

  26. This is the first thing you should do when you get your printer out of the box. Make sure you get a protector on there once you have it cleaned up so this doesn't happen to you again

  27. Sorry this is the dumbest thing ive ever read, why would you want to buy a destroyed house.

  28. Water in the cleaner, IPA in a sealable container. I use two 2l plastic pickle jars in mine and it lasts quite a while.

  29. I know your comment is pretty old, but if youre still printing, do you still use the same method for cleaning? Do you use the heat function with your IPA jar or no heat? Im considering getting an ultrasonic cleaner so just wondering if its been working for you.

  30. You can edit the estimated print time override in your printer or resin settings. Just add 10 sec to what your burn in is set to, then watch/time 10 normal layers being printed and then divide that number by 10 and that’s your actual layer print time. Once you add those in, your print estimate will be off less than a minute.

  31. For doing this post slice UVtools has a "solidify" option to fill voids like this (or you can draw in pixels in layer by layer if you like) but as they are pretty small and so close to the surface id say that a good UV light will take those out no problem post wash cure (also cure under water if you not doing so

  32. I tried UVTools on this just now, it found a lot of “resin traps” which were just a few pixels but somehow missed these large voids. Is there any parameters that you can change for this? So far the painting through through the layers seems to work the best though. Thanks

  33. So, "holes detected" really means holes in the 3d mesh, not voids in the model.

  34. So I actually tried meshmixer and the "Make Solid" feature on this model before posting this thread and it didn't seem to work on the voids, only the small mesh seams disappeared. Did I use the wrong feature or the wrong settings you think?

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