Fabulous tribute mural

C'est magnifique

This hits me right in the feels

Prayers up for the blessed. Gives %{coin_symbol}100 Coins to both the author and the community.

Shows the Silver Award... and that's it.

When you come across a feel-good thing.

I needed this today

Eighth coat of varnish on my Glen L Squirt Deck

A glowing commendation for all to see

An amazing showing.

A golden splash of respect

The treasure at the end of the rainbow. Gives the author 800 Coins to do with as they please.

Shows the Silver Award... and that's it.

Gives 700 Reddit Coins and a month of r/lounge access and ad-free browsing.

Thank you stranger. Shows the award.

When you come across a feel-good thing.

What will it take for it to stop mass shootings in America?

Beauty that's forever. Gives %{coin_symbol}100 Coins each to the author and the community.

When you come across a feel-good thing.

I'm in this with you.

Thank you stranger. Shows the award.

A glowing commendation for all to see

Can't stop seeing stars

Suffering from a broken heart

Shows the Silver Award... and that's it.

Gives 100 Reddit Coins and a week of r/lounge access and ad-free browsing.

  1. Thanks for taking the time to reply. What have you used to calibrate? What is your most effective method?

  2. For the mono x you can run a R E R F which tests 8 different exposures at 1 time by splitting the build area into a 2 x 4 grid. Do you think this would work or does the cones of calibration need to be a certain size to work properly?

  3. I'm not familiar with a RERF test? I'm running a Voxelab Proxima 6, and I used to do something similar using UVTools, but I still had the same issues when it came to actual prints. For me, the procedure I came up with, has given me 'good enough' results to move forward.

  4. It would be SO nice if resin printers could somehow document that actual ON time that the LCD has on it.

  5. We call 'em ninja deer around here. Never see them in the daylight. Only when they jump out of the dark from the side of the road, at night. So much so that the locals don't consider you "from 'round here" until you hit one.

  6. Sometimes it's tricky to get it in the hole so I like to use a pair of wire cutters at an angle to create a point so it feeds in easier

  7. This is what I do as well. Sometimes, I even need to pull the bowden out of the quick connect to get it in.

  8. Do you mean the part where the filament first passes through? Where the machine grips the filament in that vice like thing?

  9. Yes. It won't be silent if the arm is broken or not tight enough. There will also be filament powder in there if it's grinding.

  10. Bummer. I have went back into the slicer and just printed the part from the point where it failed. Resort to gluing the parts together. Change it so there’s no bottom layers, that way it shouldn’t be too visible when the light shines from the inside. Doesn’t hurt to at least try.

  11. Not sure what slicer you used, but in cura, you can drop the model through the bed and it will slice and print only what's above. I believe, infill and all.

  12. I'm running 3DMaterials brand resin. For the Fast Gray resin, my winter/spring exposure carried over just fine. My Fast Clear, however, needs almost another second to get parts to succeed.

  13. I'm contemplating using a dedicated container and putting a shaft through a grommet in one wall, and driving that shaft externally. It would be a dedicated IPA cleaning tank. Still sealed, other than the grommet and shaft, but I imagine the leakage through there would be minimal.

  14. I haven't yet I just finished reseting and changing the FEP so It was weird.

  15. I also reccomend switching to nFEP. THAT was a HUGE boost to my success rate. Liquid resin beads up like water on RainX.

  16. You've gotta do some actual exposure testing. Look up the Cones of Calibration. Watch the YT video a few times, and run some tests.

  17. Btw the bottle states 60s bottom exposure but at 40s its already so cemented to the build plate i have to put it in the freezer to get it off

  18. I went from Invebtor Pro 9, to Solidworks 2022. Tried like hell to use F360, but that was nothing but frustrating. Solidworks, so far, has been a super easy transition. Any questions I've had, I got answered on YT.

  19. When you go to level it, make sure there isn't a corner of the BP sitting on top of the black tape that seals the LCD. That may what is giving you a slight tilt.

  20. Worthy models as well! I’ve got a 1/350 Titanic I purchased in the early 80s. Any minute now I’ll get to it….any minute now….any minute….

  21. It would be nice if TableFlip Foundary would come up with another video explaining the CoC better. There are two obvious camps of people, those who only focus on the underlined cones and those who focus on all the cones.

  22. I agree. I even went back over the Tomb of Understanding (the directions), and can very easily see how someone can see it a number of different ways.

  23. You're really only supposed to focus on the ONE success cone and ONE failure cone. A lot of people are mistakenly thinking they need to get all the success cones to print, but this isn't correct.

  24. This is how I understand and do the CoC test. VoxProx6, 3DMaterials Brand (IPA and WW), and the CoC test got me dialed in to between 1-2.6 seconds. Yes, .1 second makes the difference.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Author: admin