Fabulous tribute mural
C'est magnifique
This hits me right in the feels
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When you come across a feel-good thing.
I needed this today
- By - SurvivalGrid
Nozzle got clogged after 99h printing. Pain. What's my best bet at salvaging this? Guessing the right layer and glueing it on, or just give it a top hat?
A glowing commendation for all to see
- By - Olibiro
I finished a new blog post, where I try a new way of disposing of (and possibly cleaning) the dirty IPA washing bath. Link for the full text in the comment.
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- By - yaqwsx_cz
Eighth coat of varnish on my Glen L Squirt Deck
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An amazing showing.
A golden splash of respect
The treasure at the end of the rainbow. Gives the author 800 Coins to do with as they please.
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- By - MEPETAMINALS
What will it take for it to stop mass shootings in America?
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Can't stop seeing stars
Suffering from a broken heart
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- By - ghostofanimus
hi guys, it's me again. I did a print test using 4.3s after finding this number doing the cones test. I tried to print this mini again using 2.4s(best quality) and I had a failure. What I'm missing here? Will I really need to print using 4.3s? I think I'm missing I lot details using this value.
- By - I-Want-Retire-Early
Thanks for taking the time to reply. What have you used to calibrate? What is your most effective method?
I use the Cones of Calibration.
For the mono x you can run a R E R F which tests 8 different exposures at 1 time by splitting the build area into a 2 x 4 grid. Do you think this would work or does the cones of calibration need to be a certain size to work properly?
I'm not familiar with a RERF test? I'm running a Voxelab Proxima 6, and I used to do something similar using UVTools, but I still had the same issues when it came to actual prints. For me, the procedure I came up with, has given me 'good enough' results to move forward.
It would be SO nice if resin printers could somehow document that actual ON time that the LCD has on it.
This both indescribably hurts and feels so good at the same time.
We call 'em ninja deer around here. Never see them in the daylight. Only when they jump out of the dark from the side of the road, at night. So much so that the locals don't consider you "from 'round here" until you hit one.
Sometimes it's tricky to get it in the hole so I like to use a pair of wire cutters at an angle to create a point so it feeds in easier
This is what I do as well. Sometimes, I even need to pull the bowden out of the quick connect to get it in.
Do you mean the part where the filament first passes through? Where the machine grips the filament in that vice like thing?
Yes. It won't be silent if the arm is broken or not tight enough. There will also be filament powder in there if it's grinding.
Bummer. I have went back into the slicer and just printed the part from the point where it failed. Resort to gluing the parts together. Change it so there’s no bottom layers, that way it shouldn’t be too visible when the light shines from the inside. Doesn’t hurt to at least try.
Not sure what slicer you used, but in cura, you can drop the model through the bed and it will slice and print only what's above. I believe, infill and all.
Without all you're settings, I'm gonna say the BP isn't level.
I'm running 3DMaterials brand resin. For the Fast Gray resin, my winter/spring exposure carried over just fine. My Fast Clear, however, needs almost another second to get parts to succeed.
Cool Idea.
I'm contemplating using a dedicated container and putting a shaft through a grommet in one wall, and driving that shaft externally. It would be a dedicated IPA cleaning tank. Still sealed, other than the grommet and shaft, but I imagine the leakage through there would be minimal.
You didn't knock on wood to appease the Ender gods.
DM sent
I'm beginning to question that whole lift-speed-too-high...thing.
Have you done any exposure tests?
Have you done any Calibration tests?
I haven't yet I just finished reseting and changing the FEP so It was weird.
I also reccomend switching to nFEP. THAT was a HUGE boost to my success rate. Liquid resin beads up like water on RainX.
This
Are they detailed, multi-part models?
Go through all of the pictures on a model
GOTCHA.
You've gotta do some actual exposure testing. Look up the Cones of Calibration. Watch the YT video a few times, and run some tests.
Btw the bottle states 60s bottom exposure but at 40s its already so cemented to the build plate i have to put it in the freezer to get it off
Base exposure should be about 5x your normal exposure.
As my Spanish coworkers would say:
You wanna touch his squirt deck?
Mmmmmmmmmm
I went from Invebtor Pro 9, to Solidworks 2022. Tried like hell to use F360, but that was nothing but frustrating. Solidworks, so far, has been a super easy transition. Any questions I've had, I got answered on YT.
Voxelab Proxima 6 is what I'm running.
I just looked.
https://postimg.cc/gallery/Wjf39K4
When you go to level it, make sure there isn't a corner of the BP sitting on top of the black tape that seals the LCD. That may what is giving you a slight tilt.
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If you posted more pics, I can't see them.
Public capitol punishment.
Worthy models as well! I’ve got a 1/350 Titanic I purchased in the early 80s. Any minute now I’ll get to it….any minute now….any minute….
Lol Mines still in the shrink wrap. From the 2010's, though.
It would be nice if TableFlip Foundary would come up with another video explaining the CoC better. There are two obvious camps of people, those who only focus on the underlined cones and those who focus on all the cones.
I agree. I even went back over the Tomb of Understanding (the directions), and can very easily see how someone can see it a number of different ways.
You're really only supposed to focus on the ONE success cone and ONE failure cone. A lot of people are mistakenly thinking they need to get all the success cones to print, but this isn't correct.
This is how I understand and do the CoC test. VoxProx6, 3DMaterials Brand (IPA and WW), and the CoC test got me dialed in to between 1-2.6 seconds. Yes, .1 second makes the difference.
Do some exposure tests.