1. There is a klipper config editor ? Where can I find this ?

  2. 3.0 has pins that 3.0.1 doesn't. look at both pin outs and I thing they added a boot button ? I can't remember or that took awayy the reset button.

  3. Restart everything printer and raspberry pi and try again that's what I did and it started working again

  4. Look up the manta4 setup guide and follow along from the CB1 section and you should be good to go it helps you set up from kiauh to klipper screen

  5. I literally went into that same machine the other day I found out that the raspberry pi or CB1 or whatever bored MCU equivalent that you may have doesn't have enough power to power the screen and itself so find a better power supply for it something that has five volts 3 amps Plus and then plug it all back in and you should be fine I was getting the exact same thing

  6. I use old t shirts it hold the heat in better it gets really toasty in there I leave a little gap near the top so it has a space to escape and regulate the temp that way

  7. I'm also new to the klipper/bltouch thing myself. I had similar problems as well with this.

  8. Thanks for all the help guys I think in getting somewhere I think when I home all axes the probe hit center bed the goes to 0,0 off the bed left front idk how to fix that and when I go to calibrate it dose 4 times then the 5th is off the bad on the far right

  9. Check your belts or any loose hardware I've had something similar it was a lose belt the end broke and kept it just tight enough to move it but there was a lot 9f slack and my print came out similar to that

  10. And what do you mean save_ config block what is that ? There is no temp or autogenerated files just moonraker.cfg mainsail.cfg and the printer.cfg I put in there

  11. The SAVE_CONFIG block is a section that gets added at the end of your printer.cfg file when you run SAVE_CONFIG to save some automated calibration.

  12. ok how do i get this to show up in my cfg i dont understand what you mean by run save_config. do i have to edit my printer.cfg save and restart them in the console run the command save_config?

  13. Isn't the glow in the dark filament kinda fragile? Especially for the hotend?

  14. I've used it before I've never had any of it crack just melt but it was pla and petg this is abs so I'm sure it will hold up and I'm only using it on the parts that call for accent colors in the manual

  15. Why bl touch over Cr touch?

  16. The car has a lot of funny things happen when you use it with marlin and professional firmware. Idose work better on the professional firmware ( that's what I'm using ) but honestly I'm gonna ditch these all together and go klicky probe. It just seems like the better options with not a lot of releveling and it's way cheaper then a cr and bl

  17. And I just put all this time to build a stealth burner this would have been better imo

  18. Print your own dd setup I am using a kit called manta for the V2 you might have to spend like 30 buckss 8n stuff heat sets screw and fans but you have everything else to make it the printer and filament

  19. RIP your nozzle, heartbreak and extruder gears...

  20. It's a full metal(bi metal) heat break standard copper heating block covered in nickel plating 50w 24v heater core and a bmg clone that's has been through some shit but still going on, like a champ. I don't understand your comment.

  21. Hey op what steps did you use for your stealth burner ? DO you have any links to help me get there as well or any files you can share ?

  22. I'm waiting for my CB1 and board to come so I can klipperize my v2

  23. Yes I have checked all those things my filament prints out of a dryer. The extruder is all metal and I printed a bed level test and it measures +- 0.02 of a mm. The z axis measures the same distance from the build plate at both verticals. With all this looking good I can only think I have something wrong with a setting. I calibrated my e steps they are perfect. I upgraded to the professional firmware. I don’t know what else to do.

  24. Change your slicer setting. Well uninstall your slicer and all of it's settings and then start over. I had the same issue went through the list and found that it was a setting in my slicer to be an issue. I only found out after I uninstalled it and reinstalled it that I knew it was a setting.

  25. Ok cool I will do that I saw cura has a beta 5.2 maybe I will try that!?!?

  26. Yea I was on the 5.0 beta for a while then erased / uninstalled all of cura and the reinstalled it and my print were doing much better. But I have never had an issue with super slicer/ prusaslicer

  27. Honestly if you want to fix that go dual z for your gantry I had the same issue it's just shitty construction on creality end adding another lead screw and or motor will help keep it leveled I bought mine on Amazon for 25 bucks and haven't looked back

  28. It looks like you're overextruding go to that website from the first post in calibrate your e steps follow everything it says reading the whole page and then do what it tells you

  29. Before you request the 100mm did you send the g91 command then request the 100mm ?

  30. What settings are you using? I have one in abs and pla+ both seem sturdy just not pretty enough.

  31. It's usually tucked in not out like that 😅 but it's your car you can use that flap any way you want

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