1. Tbh looks pretty unsafe even for a 3d print lol

  2. The fact that the raider is FIVE HUNDRED BUCKS is disgusting considering how little of it involves any extensive or complex machining. The most complex parts that ain't injection molded plastic are the bars of the brace, and that's not exactly a work of art. Flux could make a killing if they put a more sane price tag on this thing.

  3. You aren’t wrong but considering they are pretty much always sold out and they re-sell for around 1k probably means they will never lower the price. It’s all good though we now know there is a p320 version of the invader.

  4. Didn’t know they released a P320 version. Nice

  5. I just released mine. Over a thousand rounds through it, never cleaned it and ran great.

  6. I’ll check it out your contribution to the community is a greatly appreciated sir!

  7. Ivanttroll/RKSpookware's UBAR design is a leader next to Hoffman tactical and the firebird. I can say from substational research that the UBAR seems to be the most durable and practical lower design, and consequently the UBAR-9 9mm variant. Takes Glock mags. RKSpookware is the name you're going to want to look for to find his Ubar-9 current release though.

  8. Thanks for the info I will be giving the Ubar-9 a try.

  9. Yea but this took less time fabricating n this quick little temp mod is pretty solid not gonna 🧢

  10. There’s still time to put the actual backplate on. Pls…

  11. Looks to me like that thing is already sitting as low as it's gonna get.

  12. Nah its sitting on an adapter that’s sitting on an adapter. Maybe if I can get a single adapter it’ll be able to sit slightly lower or enough to be able to use my iron sights. Lol

  13. If you look at the recoil spring its slightly pushed out, also the front of the frame goes slightly past the slide.

  14. JoJoMasterson on the sea my friend

  15. I retract .6. You gotta tell cura when it should be retracting tho. You can also tell it to only use pathways in the infill section of the print if you're having stringing inside too.

  16. Yup I just started a new print earlier today and all my issues are fixed slight adjustment of retraction and enabling retraction on supports.

  17. You do that yourself or found a STL with it already? Because I need a Hoffman like this.

  18. Looks like a silk filament type. I probably wouldn't shoot any rounds through that anyways, regardless of the layer shift.

  19. Yea shes just going to the bin, on to the next attempt.

  20. For your next attempt, I'd still say stick with rails down, but you need to figure out why you had a layer shift. Might be a physical obstruction catching the nozzle (you see that often with curling surfaces near the trigger guard), might be a snagged wire, might have been the print came loose from the bed (hairspray is great insurance against this), or might have just been something wonky in the g-code. Definitely run it in a good PLA+ non-silk filament with whatever changes you make.

  21. Thanks for the advise! will post my next attempt when its ready.

  22. I got it working! Not sure exactly what it was but im pretty sure it was the gCode I tried everything, until I deleted the file and re sliced it. Now its working perfectly

  23. Gotta drill the pin out and use a punch and mallet to get the button pin out then sand it away till it’s flush

  24. Hey OP I just joined the community too and am wondering if you have any experience printing frames using PETG? Also I’m still kinda lost on where to source models? Thanks for any info

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