I-Want-Retire-Early


























  1. I've been having the same issue - have you done any more prints with success?

  2. I decided to step back and print some calibrations, unfortunately weekends is when I have more time for it. I will try to replace my Fep today and carry out the cones test

  3. Yes, it's the saturn, I'm trying to keep things slow as everything falls off the supports if I do it to quick. I haven't contacted lychee about it. I will do it today

  4. i had the dimple problem too and tried the "pimple" approach. From my few prints it is true, it's way easier to sand away those tiny pimples (if you can even find any), than to fill up the gaps left by the dimples.

  5. Photon M3 Plus and Wash&Cure Plus, but i'm still very new at this myself. Only have my setup for a couple weeks atm.

  6. Sorry, I meant the spherical support you are using, what set up are you using for it

  7. Apparently you can use a paper clip and leftover resin to fill these holes. Use the paper clip to place a tiny amount to fill it and then use a uv light torch to cure it! Then wet sand after

  8. Is there anyway you can put the printer on an inexpensive UPS to help eliminate voltage sag caused by the heater kicking on?

  9. Actually I have set up the thermostat to run between 28 to 32°c. I can change it to 29 30 and test it... Would that work the same way?

  10. I saw your vid of your Ameralabs town at 2.5. Frankly, it doesn't look that good. You may want to try a different resin if you want high quality detail and strength.

  11. sorry for the late reply. I just got a bottle of elegoo standard resin,and jeez, that was a completely different story. At 2.5s I was able to have a success cones print. I believe I can do it at 2.4s mm but I don't was to take risks with the supports. The failures that I'm having now is all about supports, even though, I still believe I'm using more supports than other prints I have seen out there.

  12. Treat the Puck the Adventurer mini from Tableflip Foundry (he comes with the Cones of Calibration) as another 3D calibration print. It's suggested when the CoC find your resin's normal exposure time, to print a Puck to prove it. The supports on Puck do not require heat or tools to remove, they should rip right off (before curing, wear gloves). They also leave very little damage. So if you get a flat hand or sword or foot on Puck you're still under-exposed.

  13. Good to know, I thought the Puck didn't need to succeed, I will try it again. I have been using the 2.5s which was the exposure that he failed but indeed a I have been having a few failures among all parts I put to print at the same time.

  14. You shouldn't be jumping up so much in seconds. Increments of 0.1 are sometimes needed.

  15. Even though, I did those flat tests and 2.4s was my beeest result so far, however none of my prints stay on the damn supports using this exposure. I have tried everything. I don't want to use 3.5s for example, I wanted to find a way to run 2.4

  16. Well, you can't "find a way" because there is no way that I'm aware of where you could change the resin to magically cure at the time you want.

  17. But elegoo recommends to use 2.5 on their WW, which coincidentally or not, is the best result for me... I will find a way 😂😂, I will play around with the settings until I have it right

  18. What you do you mean the last cones are not breaking? If the cones on the "Fail" side aren't breaking you have to reduce the exposure time. You only want all of the "success" sides to print

  19. https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/uzy6bd/hi_guys_im_on_a_dilemma_i_cant_have_prints/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

  20. Indeed, but my printers cannot run with 4.3s that's a ridiculous amount of time... Also,a at 4.3s I loose a lot details

  21. My saturn can print this nicer for sure.

  22. Indeed, you got me about the gloves 😂😂, I tried to spin the print wearing gloves but it was easier with my hands 😂.. Thanks for your reply

  23. I haven't seen that calibration test before what's ot called or where did you get it

  24. I am also using a Saturn (elegoo standard resin, grey)

  25. Had the same with a hollow print. Clean the interior very thoroughly. Get a syringe and blast the interior through all the drain holes many, many times until there's virtually no resin smell. Had a print that cracked in 24 hours. After reprinting and cleaning properly it's still standing without cracking after 2 months. Good Luck.

  26. Very good ideia, I was thinking in buying an optic fiber stickers, and cure it by using a uv torch at the bottom of it...

  27. Innoteck Fiber Optic Lamp - Changing Colour Rotating LED Fiber Optic Desk Lamp - Colour Changing Battery-Operated Lamp - for Children’s Bedroom, Night Light, and Perfect Home Decoration

  28. I just decided to move my entire setup outside entirely and covered it with a tarp works great. I was in the same situation like you I didn't have window option and honestly got headaches and my gf felt sick when she stayed the night. But after moving it outside its alot better and cheaper than ventilation set up.

  29. Outside you mean an open space? I have a balcony on my apartment, but no sockets to power the whole thing 😭

  30. Ah my apartment does have a single outlet on the balcony, apartment printing is rough.

  31. The hole should have been made at the bottom of your print. My rule of thumb is, I check the first few layers and as soon as I see the void being printed I punch a hole at the same level to help relieve the void and that is enough for the entire print depending on the size. The hole you made at the top will only help the encased resin to fall out if there is any. I don't see the point in doing that.

  32. I was and still having the same issues... Try to run recommended settings from manufacturer, plus resin settings too.. But I cam tell you, temperature was a factor for me, after I had it fixed, I started having good results

  33. It was like the extra thickness created a vacuum underneath the vat, or maybe the FEP was actually sticking to the screen protector itself. I guess it could have also been just enough push to over tension the FEP? I've seen people say that bits of tape along the edges or corners of the vat can add enough of a gap to remedy the issue, but since it worked fine after the added screen protector was gone I've never gone back to it.

  34. I recommend having a protector, unless you want to replace a screen because of a damaged fep sheet, a small piece of a print falling off can cause a hole.

  35. I had this glass protector film, but it is too tall, some very large bubbles was forming between the fep and the screen, do you think this might affect the printing?

  36. Hi all... I'm trying to decide what 3d printer I should get. I can't decide between Mars 3 and Anycubic m3... Please help me choose. My focus is statues and miniatures

  37. Hey mate, did u manage to get cycle to work scheme working with the lad on 3kblue? Looking to buy a m1 pro as well

  38. No I didn't, I had to get it from Fiido store in Swords... I costed more, it's been a year since I got it, no problems since

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