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  1. There's no magic formula, it all depends on the item to be printed.

  2. I'm using lychee pro. What are "fine" supports? Are they just light supports that are customized thinner?

  3. Yes. I don't use Lychee, so I don't know what their current default light support is, but I use 0.1-0.2mm tip diameter depending on the model.

  4. EDIT: Actually wait I added a picture of the cleaned up failures to the gallery. All the bottoms were warped or unfinished. I'm guessing due to being undersupported??

  5. No, you didn't, you can only link to photos after a post has been published.

  6. You need two things: a heater and a thermometer that can control it to prevent a fire. The cheap, low power cheaters you can get won't have temperature control built in, but you can get plugs that control the power based on temperature.

  7. I had resin cure on my cover, it cemented itself on, never did manage to remove it, I built a hinged cover for it anyway.

  8. Other than as background rubble, etc. uv resin is a thermoset plastic and the chemical reaction is not reversible.

  9. Resin printer is in garage and the cleaning station will not be heated. There are stretches in the winter where the IPA may end up at -10f.

  10. I've not seen anyone comment on that before I would be inclined to let the print cool to be a bit closer to the IPA temp.

  11. I normally add a single layer raft of 110-120% raft slope 90° raft height same as layer.

  12. As a general rule a starter setting is 80%, whether that 10 is a percentage or some other arbitrary scale used by Anycubic you would have to figure out by seeing what the maximum setting is.

  13. Anycubic has always tried to tie people in to their products with tactics including using unique file formats to pre formed fep replacement sheets.

  14. Formats aint a problem, I noticed that Chitubox has profile for M3 and it prints well from this slicer, also I dont think M3 and anycubic in general isn't popular, I'd Say its quite opposite for today, they have good printers but awful service. But because its still fresh product (its been half year from release?) people didnt focus on replacements because they had not enough time for tests I guess. But I sent a link in comments with DIY VAT container with reusable frame in comments from some M3 user, looks promising.

  15. The point I was making is that unlike most other makes that use .cbt v3 or v4 formats Anycubic use unique file formats for almost every different printer, not that slicer programmers cannot reverse engineer them.

  16. I had version of the above print fail by breaking loose of the supports. It snapped off about halfway through the head and only succeeded in finishing the majority of supports, and a few dangly messed up bits of model. The supports you see have been thickened and have a few added since I messed up, as I didn't think about sharing it until now.

  17. What are you using to measure? It’s unlikely that X and Y are ‘out’ significantly like you say. It IS quite common for Z (height) to be wrong

  18. There are a fixed positive errors in the x/y axes which can be caused by either parallax errors from the uv source and resin still being displaced by the build plate whilst the layer is being exposed. It is most noticeable with holes being too small after printing, particularly if they are in the base exposure layers. Generally it is not as extreme as 1mm, but it is possible.

  19. Not particularly and with any coating there is always the danger of wear or damage.

  20. As mentioned in my post we are already planning on using skin safe resin, but there does need to be paint on these pieces. They will look unfinished without paint. As a child I had plenty of plastic jewelry with paint on it. Of course the paint did wear off because it was cheap kid's jewelry, but it took years. There has to be some option out there for a higher quality skin-safe paint. Since posting last night I have found skin-safe sealant sprays for jewelry, it's just the skin-safe paint that's the issue.

  21. Depending how old you are cheap kids' plastic toys used to be painted with lead based paints to make them hard wearing, luckily safety standards have improved.

  22. I mean …. Shouldn’t we be printing with a respirator and acid fume cartridges already?

  23. voc filters rather than acid, the point was the laminar flow cabinet you would be mixing chemicals in concentrated form which depending on specifics could be absorbed into clothing and skin, requiring a higher level of protection.

  24. Sounds like you are not curing the resin fully, as an example, one of the few hobbyist resins that has a recommended post process cure time is Siraya Tech Blu and it is 20mins.

  25. https://manual.chitubox.com/faq/chitubox-basic#usb-drive-issues

  26. Drill with a dremel like tool, if they crack use better resin.

  27. If you refit the usb drive it might start printing again, some printers do some don't.

  28. Reduce uv power. You may need to increase the exposure time to offset the reduced curing power.

  29. After washing down an area and leaving it dry I would illuminate it with a uv torch, just to make sure.

  30. Also needs to be usb 2, so 16Gb max, usb 2.x, formatted to fat32

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