1. I want to see someone take that mount, slap it on an 835 and shoot a bunch of three and a half inch mags out of it to see if it explodes.

  2. I usually put one-points on pump guns. You can go either way though. Slings aren't rocket science. I make my own too and just use a piece of 1" webbing with a heavy-duty tension-lock adjuster in the middle.

  3. I make my own slings, but any quality two point sling will work. Vtac, Magpul, Ect. Lights? Surefire and streamlight. Any one of them you can mount to the gun will be good.

  4. This is almost the exact route I was thinking, I really appreciate the time and effort you took to find me those links, because you didn't have to.

  5. The Nitrolon is $25ish from a quick search. I run streamlights on most of my guns, they're another really solid option.

  6. It keeps getting stuck on the metal part of the shell, and I have to do some bullshit USB thing where itll be ok sometimes, other times I have to twist push and pull just to get it to slide in

  7. You'll need to field strip the gun to really tell. We can jump over to DM's so you can send me photos when you do the disassembly

  8. I have the same model. I just bought a 20 inch Mossberg barrel on gunbroker.

  9. I really hope you also got the 20" magazine tube with that. The 20" tactical barrel needs a 7+1 (8 shot) magazine tube, it won't work with the 5+1 magazine. Let me know if you need help, I'm a Mossberg shotgun master armorer, and I'm always willing to talk people through getting to know their platform better.

  10. I did not buy the tactical barrel. I bought the base model and I have had no issues with the 5+1.

  11. Most aftermarket forends are designed for the 590 length 7-3/4" action tube. If you got a wood 500, you'll have the Short 6-3/4" action tube. Hogue makes an adapter though. If you are asking for my opinion on the actual furniture, the two tactical options that 100% work are the hogue short shot, and Magpul SGA.

  12. I've known people who did. They never leave it on long if they use the gun much. There's not much reason to have so much rail real estate on a shotgun and it's a lot of additional weight. If you're just in love with the aesthetic, go for it. But be aware it is going to take a gun that was already muzzle heavy, and add another pound of weight in front of the receiver.

  13. Done and done. Went with the storm gray multi-use internals (spacer, spring plunger retainer) and the marine black competition externals. I guess I didn't need the competition version but I wanted the blue follower. I figured if I was going to order from them I might as well pick up the spacer, and the other internals seemed like I would eventually get them as well.

  14. The spacer is a huge upgrade. The OEM spacer is part of the reliability issues.

  15. Interesting. Well this gives me even more confindence that buying an Or3gun kit is the right move. Not for competition but just to beef up the reliability. I'll be getting all the magnum ready parts. My only issue now is figuring out which follower I want. Competition or Waterfowl? Whichever is smoother and still allows me to fit all of my shells in is the way to go.

  16. Light, ammo carrier, sling, sights. (Bead works) As for the AR-12 and Turkish shotguns in general - keep an eye on the sear, hammer, firing pin and any piston systems for cracking, chipping and peening (deformation) they're not super good at quality checking tempering.

  17. It's a great way to make a gun that is already front heavy even more front heavy. It looks cool, so if the purpose of it is to make your gun look cool, go for it. But it's really impractical for any real use, and if you brought a gun like that to a class I would probably mock you mercilessly. Shotguns are not ar-15s, you do not need 6,000 attachments. You need a way to aim, a way to carry ammo, a sling, and a light.

  18. It's huge and heavy. Bead, RDS on a much smaller and lighter rail, or ghost rings, barrel clamp light/sling mount up front, QD socket set in the stock, and Velcro shot cards. All of that is a tenth or less of the weight of that aluminum brick. As for mocking- yeah, I probably wouldn't actively belittle them, tacticool mid-2000's mall ninja stuff like this has a special place in my heart, but no place on my practical use guns. A cyberpunked out meme gun? It's great, paint that thing purple and wrap the barrel in EL wire. I have some deeply impractical guns I've built for fun, like an AR-15 in 5.56 with a 4.75" barrel, but I knew going in that it was impractical, and I knew why it was impractical. I built it because I could, for the fun of having the dumbest AR pistol ever. I straight up tell people it's trash, it's the worst way to spend a 5.56 round. Hell- I named the damn thing the bad idea. Rule of cool? Sure. if they know what it's going to do, if they know it's not really that practical, that there are far, far superior ways to do everything that rail does and more for less weight on the gun, and if they know what's going to negatively affect the way the weapon handles, cool. Buy it if you really want to. But I don't want anyone spending money on a part they think it's going to be awesome and seriously improve their shotgun when it's actually going to make it look cool and mess with the handling in a negative manner. And I absolutely do not want some poor bastard strapping it onto their defensive shotgun without knowing what it's going to do.

  19. Thank you for this info. I knew the magazine tube was torqued down. Just didn't know if the receivers had any slight differences.

  20. Just recently saw a Mossberg armorer suggest acetone for the thread lock removal if heat doesn’t work.

  21. Oh, hi 🤣😂🤣 Yeah, you really gotta let it soak though. Heats faster.

  22. You can also use solvents like acetone. Edit: I should read to the end of the comments.

  23. Yes. The Mossberg ghost ring site set will bolt directly onto the receiver, you will have to have the front sight soldered on however. They will tell you that you can use heat resistant epoxy, they are lying. You want to use solder it SP7 silver bearing solder paste or hiforce 44 solder. You can get around having to refinish the gun by protecting it with kapton polyamide tape and using a heatgun, not a torch. I like SP7 because it's flux moderated. So first melt is 430f, second is 550f. But you gotta mix it super well first. Basically every single tube you buy has separated.

  24. No, the safety doesn't. However, the 590 is a military weapon, and must meet military specifications. Per MIL-S-3443G: "4.6.7 Rough handling. After completion of the performance test, three weapons shall be chosen and subjected to the rough handling test. Each weapon will have the safety "on", a primed cartridge case in the chamber and a fully loaded magazine. One weapon shall be conditioned at -20°F, one at ambient and one at +120ºF for a minimum of four hours prior to the test. The weapons shall be dropped a minimum distance of four feet (lowest point on the weapon to the drop surface) in each of the following five modes: butt end down, right side down, left side down, top side down, and 45 degree angle with vertical Plane - butt end down. The drop surface shall be 85 + 5 Durometer (Shore A) rubber mat, one inch thick, backed by concrete. At the test’s conclusion, the weapon must be safe and serviceable and the primed shell shall not have fired." So yes. It is drop safe.

  25. I've lost a couple. Usually when I accidentally rip them off trying to be highspeed.

  26. That makes sense. I wish that screw were a little bigger so I could actually tighten it down. I always feel like I’m gonna break my wrench

  27. According to what I can find on American reloading, it's legit demil powder and such

  28. If you want a tang safety and optic? 500. If you want a cheaper gun? 88

  29. If youre going for Mossberg, the 500 or a 590A1 is the best option. The 88 is a decent low priced gun but is not as tough as a 500.

  30. There in every way identical except the trigger and safety. Seriously, the savings come from the fact they cut like five machine operations.

  31. I just sent you a message with it, but I'll also drop it here. You have reversed the return spring plunger, the skinny end of it should be protruding all the way through the bolt buffer assembly at the back of the reciver. The thick end of it goes backwards into the recoil tube.

  32. Take the side saddle off. The screws attaching the side saddle are too long and are slightly rubbing on the action/bolt. I had this issue with my 500, soon as I took that off and put the original screws back in, it worked perfectly.

  33. Okay- Mossberg armorer here. You want to use rubber jaw pliers or a strap wrench out at the very end of the mag tube where the barrel screws in, use either heat, or a solvent like acetone to loosen the locktite. If you use solvent, keep it wet for 10-15 minutes. Do not directly clamp the receiver either. Carve a 2x4 down so it fits into the bottom. Use that as a receiver wrench. If you use heat, you need more then a hair dryer. Boiling is one way, heat gun, Ect. Obviously I suggest the solvent. You won't brand yourself.

  34. "You wouldn't download a car."

  35. FULL STOP don't get a 930. Get a 940. Mossberg should have discontinued the 930 line the minute the 940 came out. As for sights- I like ghost rings and circle dot red dots, I suggest the holosun 507C. You can find them for cheap occasionally.

  36. My range has a police call as part of scoring. Mom doesn't work there. Leave the range as I found it. Sweeping up the pigeon piece's, the brass, target paster backing, anything, That includes between stages. Besides we all know the sketchy stuff we're doing and want nothing to do with that horribly abused metal.

  37. Lord- if my mom worked at the range I'd leave it cleaner then I found it.

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