1. My hobby is dicking around on reddit. Fountain pens are just my preferred choice of writing instrument. They're no more of a hobby than using a ballpoint or a pencil.

  2. What ink are you using and how did you fill the pen?

  3. I used the same cartridge, filling it several times a week for eight or nine months in my KOP. It did eventually stretch a bit and I cracked it by pushing it too hard because I didn't think it was seated fully. I've heard that the empty cartridges Sailor sells are actually more durable and slightly stiffer, but I've never verified it myself.

  4. I'm not sure if that's celluloid (cellulose nitrate) or cellulose acetate, but celluloid is very hard to find and not produced in any quantity anymore. Cellulose acetate is probably the closest thing to it that you will find and there are some nice acrylic acetates as well.

  5. If it's just a naming thing then I'm gonna save myself $30. Thanks!

  6. From the item description for the Elabo on Jetpens.com:

  7. Thanks! Yeah, I was just baffled by the price discrepancy. Guess they're just clearing out the old stock or something.

  8. They are not. They always have that discrepancy between the Falcons and Elabos. Jetpens started as grey market importers of Japanese domestic market pens. (It's in the name. They literally used to bring back suitcases of pens when they would go to visit Japan.) It's simply cheaper to cut out the American distributor, but, as they mention, there is zero warranty support. The extra money you pay for a Falcon is because their cost is higher, but you get warranty support.

  9. Namiki Aya was released recently. It's a bit upmarket though.

  10. What's up with this yellow resin I keep seeing on pens lately? It looks quite nice.

  11. It's Ultem, a polyetherimide, a.k.a. PEI. It's a high temperature, thermoformable plastic most often used in medical devices, electrical connectors and the like. It's autoclavable and resistant to most solvents, except, amusingly, ammonia, so don't wash it with pen flush. I'm not sure who used it a pen first, but it's not bad stuff. It's quite stiff and durable, takes threads well, easy to machine and not terribly expensive.

  12. I was led to believe Ultem had a rather high price tag as a material?

  13. It's about $15-$20 a foot or so in small quantities for 5/8" material and a little more for 3/4". It takes about 8" to make a pen. I imagine it's somewhat cheaper in commercial quantities. A single 8" poured resin blank is about $10-$15, so it's in pretty much the same ballpark.

  14. There are a ton of companies making ink and not all of it is safe or practical to use in all pens. Likewise not all inks behave the same way and an ink that's perfectly good in one brand of pen may have poor performance in another. If you have a problem caused by another brand of ink and you send it in for warranty repair, they may charge you based on the fact that it was filled with something unsuitable. I've seen plenty of posts here of people buying a new pen, putting in some random ink, and then declaring the pen trash only to discover that it works perfectly with the included cartridge ink.

  15. Yes it's the Pilot Kaede. Did you experience the cap "sticking"? I just went through the cap and threads with surgical spirit and a q-tip. Didn't seem to help.

  16. You should be very careful with alcohol and plastic pen parts. PMMA is very common in pens and it doesn't play well with alcohol. For cleaning I would recommend water and mild dish soap. A small, nylon brush or old toothbrush may help with cleaning as it can get into the root of the threads. Grease will redeposit on your hands and may migrate to the nib via contact when capping, so I'd personally avoid it.

  17. It looks like your nib unit isn't fully seated in the section. If screwing it back in doesn't do the trick, then you may need to apply some grease to the housing threads and the section threads.

  18. Most piston knobs aren't so easily manipulated as to necessitate worrying about such a thing, but it's not impossible for it to happen.

  19. If I'm not changing to a different ink and only refilling the pen, I almost never clean it. The only exception is if the pen is having issues. This is true even for pens I keep loaded with iron gall inks. The pens I keep inked aren't prone to drying out.

  20. There are a number of folks that do stuff like that, but it may take a minute to find someone who can accommodate exactly what you're looking for.

  21. Is there a specific place where I can look for these services, or are they just kind of scattered around?

  22. They're scattered around. You can find some on fountainpennetwork, fpgeeks, instagram, various facebook groups, and some here.

  23. Just a bit more info, not sure if the cartridge I have is mini or standard, the used inky one came with it and fits, if you look at the third picture you might just be able to see a ridge inside the body that stops the black knock for the piston going any further.

  24. Many of those inset nibs are glued in place and shouldn't be removed unless absolutely necessary. It may be the pen simply won't accommodate a converter. The cartridge looks like any modern Sailor cartridge.

  25. I used the same cartridge for eight or nine months in one of my Sailors. I refilled it at least a couple times a week. It didn't so much get loose as much as it got harder to tell if it was fully seated on the nipple. I gave it a little extra push thinking it wasn't seated and managed to crack the cartridge along the middle of the length. The mouth didn't crack.

  26. First I notice that the difference between writing with the two inks is far greater than I expected. However, with an especially light touch, the ink flow remains too inconsistent and unreliable. I could see this pen being much nicer if the nib wrote with even the slightest contact.

  27. That misalignment between feed and nib is certainly enough to inhibit flow and cause the tines to be misaligned on most pens.

  28. Sailor KOP is about the size of an MB 149, so a fair bit bigger than a 146.

  29. I have a couple of Kaweco Sports eyedroppered with silicone grease only and they work well though I do have some o rings in the way.

  30. You don't want to use an o-ring between the section and barrel on a Sport. It'll grab the inside of the cap and unscrew the section from the barrel when you unscrew the cap. This is typically hilarious for everyone else that's watching, but not very much fun for the person that does this.

  31. It's most likely an issue with the surface tension of the ink or an issue with the feed. As the feed sucks out the ink from the converter it replaces it with air. If the air creates a bubble at the bottom instead of moving up through the ink, it can eventually starve the feed. The other possibility is that the feed isn't allowing air to move up into the converter.

  32. If I'm just out doing stuff, then I only carry one. I usually only carry one or two to work, but I have a tool chest that has a whole drawer of pens, pencils, and markers, so I it's only whatever nicer pen I'm carrying that's in my pocket that goes back and forth to work. When I travel I may take two or three at the very most.

  33. Tono and Lims - My Bank Account Is Sick. Red ink with black shimmer.

  34. Smart. And gee those are expensive. Probably cuz metal.

  35. It's much more a matter of being a niche product than being made from metal.

  36. That too yeah. Surprised they aren't more common. But I'm realizing now that not all cartridges are expensive and I'm just taking Lamy's proprietary shit down the throat.

  37. People use cartridges primarily for convenience. Like many single use items, they can be reused, but most people simply don't. People that want to use bottled inks will mostly gravitate towards getting converters for their cartridge pens or move to a self filling or other internal reservoir pen. But even with a cartridge pen, the actual need to plug a cartridge when refilling isn't common. I used the same cartridge for a Sailor pen for about eight or nine months. I would simply pull it and top it up every day or two. Most of the time it was only half empty when I refilled it, but topping it up whenever it was convenient for me meant there was little chance of it running dry when I was at work and thus necessitating replacing it with a fresh, factory cartridge. I actually prefer refilling cartridges in this manner over using a converter because I find the process cleaner and in the case of Sailor pens, the converter capacity is abysmal.

  38. It depends somewhat on where your ambition lies. Nibs are probably the most difficult part to make as a hobbyist. Pen bodies, caps and sections are fairly straightforward machine work, in most cases.

  39. My go to ink for bad paper is Diamine Registrars. It's a pretty standard blue-black, iron gall ink. Oddly enough, the pen I keep it in has a fine Bock titanium nib which is pretty wet and has a fair bit of feedback, but seems to get along really well with that ink. I've tried Registrars in my Sailors, 21k large h-mf, and KOP m, and it was kind of awful, which I found surprising. Here's a couple images from a quick sample I made for someone else a year ago on some garbage notepad :

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