1. Currently the population of the USA acts more like a Divided States of America. It takes understanding and accepting eachothers point of view. Let me make it clear : this doesn't automatically mean to agree with eachother. By this, it creates a path to give and take. At the very moment, communication with eachother looks like a "no go"-area. We see groups excluding the other group(s). As long as the status is "no cooperation and rather go for sabotage the system to get what we want", this nation walks a road to create weak(er) bonds. This distructive path offers no real chance for a common accepted candidate who can build a strong unified nation again. When the (near) future lacks the will to cooperate, likely each following election might show strong flips between chosen republican or democrat candidates. Such is actually a downwards spiral, since "half" of the population doesn't feel being represented by an elected candidate. This is my idea about what is going on right now. I do hope I'm completely wrong about this.

  2. Best and most effective commercial for a cab(driver). It just misses some music.

  3. First thing that pops-up in my mind is : spray the dude with gasoline and tell him "don't fire"..

  4. Ooh, I thought you only need to unscrew that cap. My bad.

  5. Light Off delay = 30 secs ? That's a very large value. 75mm/min = 1.25mm/sec. Lift distance = 8mm => 8/1.25 = 6.4 sec. It won't solve the problem, but add just 1 sec to the calculated Ligth-off delay (set to 7.4 sec). Also, try a printjob with other brand/type resin. By this you can get an impression if it's related to the current used resin or not.

  6. OK,. in short : change Light-off delay to a value between 6.4 and 7.4 secs.

  7. This is likely a hardware-problem at electronic level. The Z-axis sensor shows it detects the metal bar (actuator), by turning off the red LED. So far it works, but the signal is not detected by the controller board. The sensor has a cable attached, with a 3-pin plug at it's end. This plug is inserted into a 3-pin socket at controller board.

  8. After reading comments here, following pops-up in my mind:

  9. The resin is brand new, just ordered it a few days ago and it expires 2024 (I checked in case!)

  10. There are actually several reasons which micht cause this problem. UV lights travels the following path : UV-Matrix => glass window => LCD-screen => FEP-film => Resin => Buildplate.

  11. What happens if you change resin (brand and type) ? Same results ?

  12. You can try a thin transparant sheet, which can be bought from copyshop or officesupply. Cut it to (over)size of LCD-screen and use tape to attach it to red-plate. It'll protect your screen from leaking resin.

  13. At the back of the steppermotor is a label. If I remember correct : 42HD6039-06. It's a stepper made by

  14. Thanks very much! Could I ask for an Amazon link to the correct one? Again, thanks for the info :)

  15. OK,. opened my machine, to check steppermotor using a multimeter. Coilresistance is 2.5 Ohms and inductance is 3.9 mH. The motor is run at 24V, but this is not accurate to calculate the rated current for this motor. This is why it's so important for me to get my hands on such datasheet. Anyway, you can look for a replacement steppermotor now.

  16. I bit late, but got some info for you after checking my Saturn : Rod is a one-way, 2mm pitch, 2mm lead, T8 trapezoidal rod. Concerning steppermotor I still can't get any info. However, the higher the resistance of motorcoils, the faster it can rotate, the lower the resistance, the more torque it offers.

  17. Simple spacer : cut a strip from the cover of a magazine. Stick it with tape to metal bar, which inserts the Z-axis sensor when homeing. Cut this strip to length in order to extend the length of the metal bar by 2.8 mm (that's my "spacer" for the flexplate I use). The spacer is nothing more than to compensate the added height of the flexplate attached to the buildplate. You can do it by a spacer and 2 new screws, or a just strip/piece of paper and some tape.

  18. Hoping to get some help with the saturn. I haven't had any major issues when working with the Mars 2 Pro, so I'm not sure what is going on in regards to the saturn. Main goal is to try to get some nice detailed terrain prints to actually be successful. Smaller scaled miniatures haven't had any issues like this.

  19. As a quick temporary solution for the Z-spacer, you can use a strip of paper, cut from the cover of a magazine. Attach this to the black metal bar which is blocking the Z-sensor (rectangular hole in the red plate). Cut the strip at desired length to extend this bar (2.8mm). Remove resinvat, add a thin paper to LCD-screen and loosen fixation-bolts/screws of buildplate. Let printer perform a "homeing"-procedure. Tighten bolts. Next is to set this position also as 0-level.

  20. To prevent LCD-screen from cured resin, after a puncture or tear in FEPfilm, I use a thin transparant sheet our pouch to store letter/A4-sized papers. It can be bought at local copyshop, bookshop or officesupply-store. Cut it to (over)size of LCD-screen and stick it with tape to the red plate.

  21. The screenprotector you mean is likely a thick sheet of plastic, which protects the screen from "parts" you accidentaly drop at the screen, like the buildplate. If it's just to protect the LCD-screen from leaking resin, like a puncture or tear in FEPfilm, I advise a thin transparant sheet to cover the LCD-screen. You can tape this to the red plate. Such thin sheet can be bought at a copyshop, bookstore or officesupply-store and is cheaper than the thick screenprotector.

  22. You mean, everything goes fine, unless you want the UV-LEDs to switch on? If such case, it's likely something wrong in electronics. I guess it's probably something about the inverterboard inside the printer (at right side, next to UV-matrix), or the MOSFET at controller board, which act like a switch to the inverterboard for power, or something else at controller board.

  23. This is what I'm having trouble figuring out. I'm not convinced it's exposure time - as you can see parts of the model cured perfectly. The sections of the print on either side of the softened area came out solid and detailed. It is interesting that two attempts to print the grey one failed (and I did re-slice before the second time), yet the Sherlock bust had no issues at all...

  24. If it's not exposuretime, you suggest it might be some resin clogged inside the model and dripping down and got partly cured ? I dunno, could be.. The "cheese"-parts is not the part that should have been cured at all, right ?

  25. No - it's actually part of the model itself that didn't cure. It's interesting that on both attempts it was pretty much exactly the same section that didn't cure both times, and not at the beginning or end, but in the middle of the print. Haven't seen this with any other prints yet (although I've only been at this a few days) so I'm starting to suspect the model. Did have this issue with another large part of the same model though (it's baby Yoda). I'll be cleaning the new bust today, so will be interesting to see if there's anything similar there.....

  26. There's an option to clean FEPfilm of resinvat. Try this while dry-printing (no buildplate / resinvat present). Or you can create a block the max size of the LCD-screen in your CAD-program and try to print this. Check if you see a uniform pink UV-LED or if there are some weaker spots at LCD screen. If there is, probably some UV-LEDs are "dying" at UV-matrix.

  27. To put it a bit in perspective : nobody wonders about the quality of attended universities and degrees? I guess some degrees can just be "purchased" in India. Besides, I personally know someone with a university degree, which barely passes the level of highschool. Nevertheless, it's an impressive amount of degrees / diplomas.

  28. A lesson in physics : what goes up will eventually come down

  29. When checking this pad there's a partly round cut at right-mid. I guess soon another Cheetos-fan will post a message : "Do they recently enrich Cheetos with iron in the form of a nut / bolt ?"

  30. I think the "X" stands for IPA or alcohol.... (only a bit more expensive. It's all about marketing I think.)

  31. Several years of hard training, slamming your dick to mash potatoes. And by accident discover this was not the tricky part, but rather hitting your balls. Oh well, lets start training again....

  32. The four screws, two per side on the bottom brace plates (?), are tight. I just tried loosing them to see if the tower shifted… didn’t move at all. Guess there are more bolts inside?

  33. Yes, bolts inside then. To open the machine, you can pay a visit at YouTube or download a manual

  34. All were tight, nothing loose.

  35. Than machine is not OK at delivery. You can solve it yourself, by drilling new holes in the side-bars to align the screws. It's better to get it solved by Elegoo, since this is a real production-error.

  36. There's a ton of subs that are for buying and selling, especially within communities. Its a great way to avoid ebay fees and what not

  37. I wrote a review about my experiences concerning an upgrade-kit for the Elegoo Saturn and tried to post it at Reddit. I'm not even the seller, but the review got removed at an instant. It made me believe : if this is not possible, I guess selling is even a bigger "no-no".

  38. Removed by reddit's automod or by the mods here? automod isn't super reliable, my whole account got shadowbanned just a while ago because it thought it was a spam account. Thankfully I emailed them and they unbanned it

  39. Automod. I'm pretty new to reddit and tried to open a chat with a mod "in person". However, I noticed I should be invited for chat by mod, which I got much later (invitation). Since I live in Europe, there's a "time-mismatch" to respond to that. I added some lines of text, but no reply to that either.

  40. Contactpoints are too small / thin to object or builplate lifting upwards set too high. (Did you print a malformed crab which got eaten by a worm ?)

  41. You got a link to upload it to ? I got TM Screen V4.4.3 for you, if interested.

  42. And maybe less supports. Now it looks as if there are 3 "walls".

  43. They probably won't want to change the supports for this purpose. They're called fins. Its a common technique for people trying to print sharp edge dice. You use a ton of tiny supports that practically create a wall, they break off nicely, and super easy to sand down into crisp edges.

  44. Ok,. learned a new word today (fins) and suddenly I realise I use it sometimes too although sligthly different. For one specific model I added thin walls as support. OK,. I call them fins from now on. Forgive me if I'm in a hurry to explain something at Reddit and accidentally call it a "wall" again. :))

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