1. The very beginning! Just installed it last night. I was told by a dev i don’t need to worry about pressure advance as much with the SR. When you say “all set for fast printing” how do in print faster? I’m changing many settings and end up with very similar print times

  2. Hm a delta is a fast motion system to begin with. Maybe your hotend is the limiting factor

  3. same dev told me my hotend was a problem, yup. told me to add an m6 nut because the SR's clone heat block has awkward dimensions.

  4. Table top gaming, aircraft, self designed odds and ends that I use around the house… Some print in place mechanical stuff just for shits and gigs, but recently I’ve decided to make some stuff to sell. So pretty regular series of reasons. Why do you print?

  5. Pretty much the same thing, just Character figures instead of aircraft. I just noticed you said you were blind, so i was wondering if you had different reasons or used it for a specific application. Hopefully that wasn’t an ignorant question!

  6. Not so much. I have printed some brail stuff but it's super inefficient when there are machines that can slam out several pages per minute. It's nice to get a tactile representation of objects that I couldn't ordinarily access, like buildings, aircraft too, large structures where feeling a small part ofthe original doesn’t really give an indication of how the whole appears.

  7. xng says:

    It's hard to hear from the sound exactly what it is, but you can try lubricating the rails.

  8. Imma grease the rails again. Def sounds like it’s coming from the frame tho, I’ll try tightening the extruder mount

  9. Runs great with mine. What’s the exact issue that you are having?

  10. Touchscreen stays powered on when machine is off if pi is connected, have to turn machine on before i connect it to usb or octo won’t recognize it. Worst of all, sent my effector to the left at unsupported angle and broke off the arms

  11. The usb cable connected to the octoprint and the printer, has enough power to keep the motherboard on. Check what cables you can cut in the usb cable to fix this or buy a usb “only” data cable.

  12. Yup I’ve seen about the 5V pin. My question is does that pin only affect the touch screen issue, or would it do things like move the effector in a weird way so that the arms pop off the ball joints

  13. Try setting your infill flow to 103-105% under material settings in cura. That helped fix this issue on my SR.

  14. INCREASING the flow helped? I thought the issue was potentially over extrusion. ill try this tho, you said it worked for you? eliminated the dragging?

  15. It doesn't matter if you machine is brand new when you catch bad filament. People are hitting their heads with all sorts of re-calibrations, only to find out that a particle got stuck in their nozzle.

  16. Ah, so you're saying dragging is the nature of the beast. ill admit that when using grid I still get good prints, the true issue is that when I use lower density supports it can dislodge them. It can dislodge smaller prints from the plate to. I just had to drop my speed to 100mm/s and use a raft to print a lever.

  17. Not all printers support it. In any case, I've only seen it list stored EEPROM settings.

  18. that's what im saying, how would I find out if its supported lol

  19. You need to open and view the firmware’s Configuration.h file and read through it. It’ll show what features and adjustments are enabled. Some can be just as simple as uncommenting a few lines and recompiling the firmware.

  20. Were you using firmware version 1.3 or 1.4 when this issue happened? im dealing with the same thing.

  21. That's an huge benchy but mine is bigger.

  22. Yes, I have the palette 2 pro and the 3 pro, one connected to a Ender 3 pro and the other to a Cr10 smart pro. They are awesome!

  23. How has you experience been? Any major obstacles? How much of a time increase is there?

  24. wow just looked it up, it costs almost twice as my SR cost wtf

  25. I don’t have a direct answer, but I’m looking to connect two cameras, one of the strategies is to explicitly state which one is which, rather than rely on auto-discovery…so, find out what it defines it as (/dev/cam1) and force the feed to that.

  26. Sorry to comment on an old post but did you manage to fix the levelling issue?

  27. I did! My x axis was out of alignment. Tightened the eccentric nuts and it’s fixed. Anycubic support on YouTube has a video “auto leveling for kobra” or something like that and it shows how to fix it about 45 seconds in. Really simply. Lifesaver

  28. just assign different ports to each Pi and open them on your modem, then access your public IP and depending on the port you access it will be the Pi you enter

  29. how are you connected to your local network from externally? If you use some kind of VPN which is connected to the local network, you can connect to any device in your network there

  30. It's always been a challenge to insert the filament, even on the 2's. Cutting a 45-degree angle helps. Normally I twist and rotate the filament until I line it up but I'm not sure how well that will work with the new runout sensor

  31. Does not twist once it’s in the extruder lol hopefully Filament better than the sample spool will act better

  32. I saw uncle jessey cut the end of the filament at 45 degrees to get it to feed through better - maybe this will help next time?

  33. so i enter this into the octoprint terminal and replace “host name” with the name i want?

  34. Well guys I finally figured out how to fix my issue. I had to download Pronterface and connect my printer via USB, then send the command "M503" to find my Z Axis E-STEP value, then go in notepad (NOT MICROSOFT WORD) and make type:

  35. I have this same problem. Could you provide a bit more detail? And could i use octoprint for this rather than pronterface?

  36. This worked perfectly. I did notice that the build plate visual in PrusaSlicer still shows it is a square. I then went into the Printer settings and changed the Bed shape to circular and updated the diameter to 260. Will this work?

  37. Zits are caused by the nozzle waiting on the recording of the last position of the printer for the recovery.

  38. i have this same problem with vase mode. Do i add the code to my Start Gcode?

  39. I got it to print! I was using a profile the defaulted tree supports to 0% density. Works for a lot of stuff, didn’t work for this. Like supports at 8% did the trick!

  40. Question: If getting Klipper to work on the Kobra is potentially fraught, would it be easier/safer to get a known-supported mainboard and bypass the H32 entirely? That is to say, are the things that plug into the mainboard standard enough that I could get a different mainboard that is well-supported by Klipper?

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