ltsdrpepper


























  1. No I mean, uninstall all existing drivers using DDU (display driver uninstaller). You can google the program, it will walk you through the process of a clean uninstall and reinstall of your drivers.

  2. Ok cool would I just use integrated graphics while going through that process?

  3. Yes you can. You can also using the gpu, it will default to a basic driver during the process.

  4. I recently moved my runt back in with neon tetras so he won't have to compete as much for food with the more aggressive ones. I'll put them back together once Larry can get a little size on him. I suspect that at least one of my Stooges is female. So once they're breeding age I'm betting one of the three will need to be put in a separate tank permanently.

  5. What size tank are they in currently and what sort of aggression do you see? Also do you plan on putting them in a different tank from the angels at that point as well?

  6. They started out in a 10 gallon by themselves. Then were moved in to a 36g bow-front with everyone else (there were no Danios then and my existing neons were in a third tank). I got the Danios and ⅓ of my current neons at once and for free. The new neons went in to the 10 that the Polars were in, the Danios went in to the 36. I moved Larry back to the 10 with the new neons at that point since he is still so small.

  7. Thank you. I’m thinking I may go for a larger cichlids with these guys for the 75 gallon and then maybe a pleco.

  8. There’s a seller on Amazon named Flowtamer who makes a dual filter intake that includes pre filter sponges. It is on the pricier side at 40ish dollars but I’ve installed it on all my fx4s and dont regret it.

  9. Thanks so much! Did the dual intake affect your GPH turnover significantly (enough to negatively affect the pump)? I will check out that guy's Etsy shop. I may also just remove the bulb, cap the pipe, drill a lot of holes in the length, and use a long piece of foam over the entire thing. I wish Fluval would redesign the intake end piece or sell after-market options.

  10. Only issues I have had are if I don’t clean or replace the sponge once it’s connected enough debris.

  11. Why not just get the hw3000 for the same price and more filtration?

  12. Does the fx4 do a good job in your 125g? I feel like I might as well just go with the fx4 with the replies I’m getting. And how loud is it? I can’t imagine it being too unbearably loud

  13. I run multiple fx4s in my fish room. Non are very loud at all.

  14. I looked at the cb500r but it being heavier and with gearing that somehow makes it slower than the ninja 400 just isn’t worth it when it’s nearly 2000 dollars more. IMO the cbr500r is a competitive performer to the r3 and ninja 400 but priced competitive to the ninja 650 which is just not great.

  15. Cool good luck be safe and take it slow

  16. Oh absolutely I’m both extremely excited to finally be financially in a place to get one and terrified to get on one after 4 years.

  17. So I don’t keep ocellatus but I do keep a similar species of meleagris/stappersi I kept 6 in a 20 high for a while and they are now in a 40 gallon. In a tank of atleast 20 gallons you shouldn’t have any issues with more submissive ones getting killed but one or 2 may be pushed into the upper corners of the tank. As well you won’t see to many fry survive as the mother will generally protect them but the father and others in the tank certainly will eat them. However if you get it paired down to a single pair you will likely have a full generation or two be able to grow up in a tank that size.

  18. Thank you for the response! Regarding the fry, is this also the case with supposedly less aggressive species like multis or similis? I'm mainly keeping them to observe their breeding behaviour so I want as many fry to survive as possible. May get similis instead if they're more communal with the juveniles.

  19. Similis will be a little better with juveniles similar to a species like Brevis that will form distinct pairs and protect their own fry. If your looking for a more communal species then multis are going to be your best bet. I have also seen cases for caudopunctatus to colony breed as well but they are less of true shell dwellers and mine have personally yet to spawn.

  20. 29 gallons will probably be a little rough for that combination but it could work if you get smaller julies. Ideally 6 to get a good chance at a pair forming. If it were me I would add multies first and let them establish for a bit before adding the Julies.

  21. I keep both and can tell you that’s just a young multi.

  22. Don’t worry too much about hardness anything above neutral they will really be fine in. For food I recommend mixing it up frequently. I feed mine a lot of xtreme nano and krill flake and they love those. I also try to add in frozen foods 2-3 times weekly. Since I have alot of babies I stick to smaller stuff like daphnia and baby brine but the adults love regular brine shrimp as well. I will caution against feeding blood worms as most Tanganyikan species simply don’t do well with that amount of protein and can get bloated easily. A 10 gallon will probably be fine for a trio so long as you remove the babies when they get to big. If you have room for a 20 long I suggest that and get a colony going.

  23. Thanks for sharing. They make the Congos look huge. You reminded me I haven’t cleaned my glass in months. Otto cats have me feeling guilty 😆

  24. Don’t worry too much. It’s a new tank so it will eventually get that way too XD.

  25. Yeah.... I saw them at the lfs and really like them. Went home and looked into it and there just isn't a whole lot of info on them.

  26. Mostly I’m just worried about aggression between them and the shell dwellers. I’ve had julies before so I know how they are but the gobys are unkown.

  27. So I decided to just do it and get them because I freed up extra tank space in case I need to move them. They are actually more aggressive than the occelatus I’m keeping with and after a few scuffles they have retired to their respective zones and established a pecking order.

  28. I in no way would put corys with any form of shell dwellers. But look into the catfish that I keep with them. Synodontis nigreventris. They are around the size of larger corys and are tough enough to not be harmed by the displeasure of the shell dwellers. They have the same rough body shape and are quite adorable to watch swim upside down

  29. No problem at all. Lake tang fish are my favorite so I’m always happy to help with advice on them when I know the answer. I personally currently keep 6 shell dwelling species and have successfully bred 3 of them so far. Though that’s not a high mark for many shell dwellers because they do most of the work themselves.

  30. Lamprologus caudopunctatus red fins would make a decent substitute for the nigripinnis and they max out at around 3 and 1/2 inches

  31. My Multis will do this sometimes. Fish get itchy too and it’s just how they scratch. Though the tail is slightly tattered on yours. Are you having much aggression?

  32. Make it spawn barbs 2 levels higher than the card itself like mirror

  33. Can I ask what kind of water parameters you have because I also have decently hard water. Mine has a pH of 7,5,a gH of 13°dH and a kH of 11°dH. I do prefer the non rift valley cichlids because they can be more easily be kept in a planted tank.

  34. I’m at roughly 20-30 degrees both gh and kh with 8.4 ph. Roughly all of my tanganikyans will do just fine in a planted tank.

  35. Yup Africans love it particularly my multi colony is exploding.

  36. Ok, thank you, good to know. I was originally going to add some calvus (my rock territories are on opposite ends) but those can be fry eaters of the occies before you can even spot them so it’s a no from me. I was planning on getting a small variety of the cyps, pretty much every source I’ve looked at says they would be ok just none of the larger varieties. I do have another tank to move out any fish to that are having troubles (it’s a 39g so if the cyps were troublesome I’d move them there then probably sell/give away/trade them since that’s not big enough for them). I don’t mean to discredit you just sharing what I’ve been told to this point, maybe you’re right. Is there any other species you’d recommend for this tank? I do want some breeding and can move fry out right away but I’ve been nervous about other fish (like altos) eating fry before I can get to them

  37. Calvus would honestly be fine if you keep an eye on it. I moved my meleagris (pearly occelatus) into a mixed tank that’s has Brevis, calvus, many plecos, synodontis, and a large male multi. I actually had been having trouble spawning them which is why I moved them to this temp tank before I switch out my 75s for 40s. They then decided to spawn in that tank and I had a decent amount of time to pull the shell with fry in it into a breeder box for now. Calvus are generally sold young and take quite a long time to grow and well most occies can easily stand up to a juvenile calvus easily. As far as the cyprichromis go you can get away with the smaller species in a 55 but Many times the jumbos won’t be listed properly from the others and its hard to tell the difference until they fully grow out. It’s not something I would personally risk when I know I’m gonna have other fish in there as well. If your set on them a colony of paracyprichromis such as the blue neons would do fine with 6-8 of them but I would forgo the julies for them as they occupy rockwork as well.

  38. Hm, that’s interesting. Are your calvus adults? I know juvies can’t but when they’re adults is when they’re real beauties and it would be a shame if that’s also when they will gobble up the fry. I’m set on cyps, I want an open water fish, I’m going to order in to my lfs and if I get jumbos I’ll retry and sell them, but I know what variety I want that stays small. I want them for the open water swimming that can help bring the rock dwellers out so paracyps are a no

  39. My calvus are just over a year old with my largest male being about 3 and 1/2 inches. They aren’t sexually mature yet as calvus can take up to 2 years to reach that stage. They will certainly eat fry that go unguarded but you will have atleast some time to get the fry into another home so long as your diligent. However if you start adding more fish you will have overall less time and lower survival rates with fry. A properly sized school of cyprichromis of atleast 10-12 fish will also raid your shells looking for an easy snack and a 55 is not much room for cover at all as it’s only a foot front to back. I was having issues with my multi fry being eaten frequently with even less fish in a larger 75 gallon and that ultimately made me decide to remove all other fish from that tank other than the Multis and plecos and I now have went from at most 3 fry out and about at one time to literally dozens from spawns all over the tank. It also is what’s driving me to replace my other 75s with 40 gallons so I can do lighter stocking more focused on breeding with only 2 pairs of fish per tank. You can certainly have a beautiful show tank with all 3 of those species in a 55 but you would be setting yourself up for a lot of headache if your intending on breeding in that set up and I would recommend setting up separate tanks or upgrading to a minimum of a 75 for the extra 6 inches front to back with a 125 being more proper if your planning on breeding the cyprichromis as well.

  40. not recommended Tanganikyan cichlids tend to be less boisterous compared to other Africans and will easily be bullied as well as with their size being much smaller they could very well be killed or eaten with larger cichlids.

  41. Just posted my comment but my lfs was supposed to order me 4 inch geos and these are much smaller. I’m worried about my bichirs outpacing them and then trying to eat them. For reference the bichirs are about 3 inches right now.

  42. Nah, you good homie. The Geos should outpace the bichirs in growth rate along with your worries. That being said; idk how ballsy bichirs are.

  43. The albino will happily eat from tongs but the grey one is still pretty skittish even when tong feeding. He tried to nip one when they were first put in but as soon as he realized it moved he darted off.

  44. Not too sure about the first one. While I will agree that they certainly do enjoy sand better it’s not that they “need” it. I kept my first batch of corys in aquarium gravel as a new hobbyist and they did fine. The second batch I kept in 80 grit sand that’s little more than dust and now I keep some in both 40 grit and on fluorite. Outside of it being extremely enjoyable to watch them bury their heads in fine sand I have had any barbel issues and they show breeding behavior in every setup.

  45. I mean if your willing to go that high just look at getting a custom built from nzxt, clx, origin, etc…

  46. You can get a fluval canister. You can try the fx4 but you would need to adjust the flow rate. As it is meant for a 250 gallon. Never had any issues with fluval. I have two of their canister filters.

  47. On a 75 gal the fx4 would do fine even at full flow. I have one on my tanganikya tank and full flow doesn’t even push my shelldwellers around. I do aim one nozzle upwards for surface agitation and one keeping mid level across the tank.

  48. Really? I read about it and it said it’s way too much on a 75. Well the Fluval fx4 is probably your best bet OP.

  49. Yeah they rate them usually based on media basket size rather than flow. It’s rated at 525ish gph which on a 75 turns over about 7 times per hour. Most recommend having a tank turn over 5 times per hour for most fish that like flow and up to 15 times per hour for fish that live in fast flowing water with tons of oxygen in the water such as hillstream loaches. Given that it’s a cichlid tank most of the rift lakes are large enough to have their own waves, tides, and currents. A fx4 is definitely the way to go if it’s in your budget.

  50. It’s really personal preference. On 2 of my 75s I’m running tidal 110s with sponge filters as well. On another I’m running a fluval fx4 the hobs are less time consuming to maintain and get the job done well. The canister is less intrusive on the look of the tank and has more capacity. Overall I like both and could recommend either.

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