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  1. Welp, remember this at the polls, guys. Or whenever your republican acquaintances complain about high gas prices.

  2. You could build 5 homes in the third world just for the fee of obtaining a building permission slip here for one home.

  3. Reset to defaults. Add G29 after G28 in the gcode. Dont do the level in the printer menus.

  4. Both. This isnt fosscad specific. I can manually feed just fine after a heatcreep clog.

  5. Normally for big overhangs i set a few of the layers to a ton of walls.

  6. Kaiser has $10 copay 0$ deductible plans. This sub isnt to complain about the outcome of your insurance choices.

  7. Used to have some overhang warping, turning bed down to 50 and printing with enclosure opened fixed that one. The only other issue I have is over extruding solid infill and solid bridge areas. I have a theory that it is just something that happens, but it has a much worse effect when using .6 nozzle instead of .4 nozzle. Will find that out soon, going to be printing a bunch of smaller stuff like trigger etc with .4

  8. Infill has wall overlap which inherently is overextrusion.

  9. What if it just isn't extruding at all? I have adjusted the tension, changed temperatures, and changed the nozzle and still run into this issue with the silk.

  10. Thats a seperate issue. Prolly heat creep if youre running all metal

  11. Original SV03 head. Has the white tube internally that the filament runs through. I thought I had the heat issue fixed but it randomly comes back without any changes to the settings. Really annoying.

  12. Seems teflon already. Make sure your retraction distance is like 0.8mm and nozzles are tightened while hot.

  13. Basically. Well, im sure a Hoffman will come out fine with htpla if you put an oversized mag in it during the process. wrap one in tape or something

  14. Klipper mesh never worked right for me. I just do the corner readings where it tells you what to turn to manually level it.

  15. I just use stock fw, factory reset it, never run the level in the menu and just add g29 after g28 in the gcode. This is how i setup all of my friends and it works great.

  16. Ender 3v2 is doing 4 hour UBARs and Hoffmans with 0.6 and like 1mm or 1.2 linewidth and like 0.32 height.

  17. Well...you're wrong? I don't know what to tell ya my man.

  18. Dont be stupid. A turkey takes 3+ hours at 350F to get to 165F. Clear HTPLA makers say its done when it turns opaque.

  19. Well it did turn opaque and the heat deflection temperature was increased to well past 60C so, again, you're wrong and i don't know what to tell ya.

  20. 3am reslicing/restarting print because you didnt like the last 10 attempts 'for the night'.

  21. that's not correct. the only reason to not do 100% infill is because some slicers (looking at you, cura) do funny stuff when it is. there is absolutely nothing to substantiate low infill percentages. 95-100 is where you should be.

  22. Cura bug report claims that 100% infill is intentionally done as skin for strength reasons. Not sure if Arachne changes that.

  23. You shouldnt fire anything you can see individual strands on (excluding supported areas)

  24. Any advice for someone doing his print for the first time?

  25. also, you really should be testing fuzzy on a calibration cube or something so you know what it looks like.

  26. I'm not doing fuzzy at all, just the normal print. I should have been more specific.

  27. uhh. learn to print is my advice. its a frustrating tinker hobby. my friend has had several printers for 5 years and rebuilds newspaper printers for a living but his 3d prints still come out like shit.

  28. Inner wall speed, play with combing, retraction speed. Adjust linewidths wider. The slicer will give you a time breakdown by feature.

  29. prints infill instead of all bottom layers.

  30. prolly tried up to 240 or 250. it works alright for art stuff

  31. Shoulda used gyroid infill so you could put Bourbon in there.

  32. Who's distributing lower gcode with 20% infill?

  33. Seam artifacts. If you just want this screenshot to look good then set seam to back left. For Hoffmans I use back right.

  34. lol @ people saying to change your steps, as if gnomes swapped your stepper motor with another.

  35. 3d printer terms suck and are outdated. Anyways thats heat creep jamming, lower your retraction distance by 25%

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