seabornman


























  1. Get it pumped. If you push raw sewage into your leach field, you'll clog it up and have bigger problems. The person who pumps it out should be able to tell you what might be happening.

  2. Your first row of tile are all cuts at the bottom, making the top of the first row level. You don't backbutter the size tile you are using. Use thinset mortar and use a notched trowel the size that's shown on the box of tile (probably 1/4 x 1/4). Where have you waterproofed? Behind the cement board or will you be applying something on top of the cement board?

  3. You'll have to cut the siding back to allow for the metal roofing flashing to slip under the siding and over a rib of the metal roof. You should plan your roofing layout so roofing rib is close to siding, or get a bend put in that sheet.

  4. What the best way to cut the siding without ruining it? I’m thinking grinder.

  5. The flats will cut easily with tin snips. The joints could be a pain. You might want to slip some felt between the aluminum siding and steel (I assume) roofing to keep the corrosion down.

  6. You don't extinguish a grease fire with water. An "Ansul" dry chemical system is used in commercial kitchens.

  7. Omg... I assumed not because, why would there be since it's brand new... just went out and looked and they have the poles for the handle sticking 12 through the mower deck and blocking the blade. Fixed that and it started on the first pull.

  8. The grout could have a haze on it and might get darker. Have you tried to clean a small piece of it?

  9. Probably easier to scrape it off prime the raw paper with a kilz like oil based primer to seal paper or it will bubble. Then float it with sheetrock topping mud. Going to have to mud it over anyway if you replace it. No clean way to remove glue without tearing paper.

  10. Biggest challenge is where the roof ties in. They probably just used caulk to attach the flashing to the brick and you might have a time getting it off. Otherwise it shouldn't take much to demolish.

  11. Is there a basement? Houses with basements up north often have inside shutoffs and drains to protect from freezing.

  12. Is that a concrete wall? Unusual for a 1920s house. That's not much of a crack. It looks like a cold joint from 2 concrete pours. I don't believe it's anything to worry about.

  13. Just got back from Colorado. The town we stayed in has all gravel streets except for the main highway, so gravel can work in the right soils. Find out what is done in area around you. And make sure in the steep area there's a lot of crown or side slope to get water off road as quickly as possible.

  14. So are you going to get down below frost and install a beam that will span 12'?

  15. A 10x12 shed could float with frost heave on gravel. It could raise up in winter and settle down in summer. It would only be a problem if one corner or end decided to move different than other parts. I'd definitely go with gravel

  16. I have my list of things that have to get done, and I even prioritize it occasionally. But, every once in a while I have to back off and do none of it, or even if I'm feeling guilty about not progressing I'll do a little thing that's not on the list that can get 100% finished in a short period of time.

  17. Get a big black roll of polyethylene sheet and place it where you want a garden. Old carpeting or similar is better. Weight it down so it doesn't blow away. It will kill the grass and other growy stuff to give you a chance at a nice garden. We tried to turn a lawn into a garden one spring and we've been fighting the remains of grass ever since.

  18. Sorry to disagree but a high inclination ground mount sure will. In fact if you use bifacial panels in the snow it will produce a lot of power. There are places all over the world with heavy snow loads using solar power. Extremely low temperatures might be an issue for some battery types but there’s always the fall back to nickel iron which are virtually indestructible if you can’t insulate the battery pack.

  19. We're in the snow belt in upstate NY. Average 130" snow a year. My solar panels are on a 12/12 pitch facing due south and are almost always clear of snow, except when we get freezing rain before a snow. Then it takes a day or two to clear. If I went out and cleared with a roof rake it would clear faster.

  20. I have never marked up a bid for a gc or given kick backs. I have heard of it happening though mostly with large tract home builders.

  21. There's always a few perks to be had but the biggest money saver is sending work to subs and vendors who get the work done on time and right! That's money in the bank.

  22. I'm not understanding this plan. The ICF walls should be centered on the footings. This is a wood-framed stair within the ICF wall or is it something else?

  23. Much of it depends on the soil. We have so many stones that it's near impossible to dig a plumb hole, so we end up making oversize holes. I've had good success using pea gravel for backfill, with a soil cap.

  24. Ah, thanks for that point. Yeah we have quite a bit of various-sized cobbles mixed in as far down as we've seen—I hadn't thought about it but yeah I would be crazy to expect an auger to go in anything resembling a straight line. How much do you oversize and what does your soil typically look like related to that? Debating now if we should move up to a 6" or 8" or what.

  25. I use a 12" auger, as my 6" auger is too small

  26. We ended up installing a 7' high deer fence around our orchard area. Get the heavier duty plastic netting as the light stuff doesn't last.

  27. Use a wire brush and remove that as you go. Is that the coarsest grit available? When I did my floors I was using a 36 grit (I think) for initial sand.

  28. What kind of wood? In most climates, if it's not treated pine, cedar, or similar, it won't last.

  29. Flex duct is a poor way to run duct, as you can see. I'd try and replace as much of it with metal duct, if I were you, with short pieces of flex to the registers. Yes, it's diy, with a reasonable amount of planning.

  30. Sure, you can move the joists. It appears that the rafters are being braced to the joists, so you'll have to deal with that, as well as insulating the roof.

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