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  1. Is that on the side facing the build plate? Is so, that will show any scratches or texture on the build plate.

  2. The side with the lines was printed vertically, it had no contact with the build plate. That's why I'm so confused with the lines going both ways.

  3. Does your FEP have marks or impressions on it? Maybe these are from the FEP.

  4. Many people start with model kit and build a scene around it. So, if you are interested in cars, build a vehicle and then a garage or parking lot. For a tank, you might build a war scene. Build a section of runway for a model airplane.

  5. If possible, print these flat on the build plate. You might need to split the model with a 3D editor like Meshmixer.

  6. How was the model oriented to the build plate? Can you show a screenshot in the slicer with supports?

  7. The 1.5 version is underexposed because the center points don't touch. You might also try 2.2 and 2.5 just to see how it looks overexposed.

  8. Be sure to prime your model with a spray can primer before you start to do any brush painting. The primer color will depend on your final color. I usually use grey or white.

  9. Sometime next week I believe the garage is going to get cleaned and I'll be moving my setup outside in an unoccupied space to limit fumes and chemical exposure. I have a ton of safety gear already so I'm set for handling toxic/caustic chemicals.

  10. I prefer Lychee slicer due to its ease of use. I use the free version which has features on par with Chitubox. You do get a single ad at the final part when you save the sliced printer file.

  11. Printed on an Anycubic Photon S, I just replaced the LCD screen and switched from Eco resin to Siraya Tech Fast Grey. Using Lychee as the slicer this was printed at the following settings.

  12. Are you letting your print dry before curing? I sometimes wipe mine with a shop towel because I am impatient. You might also consider using a toothbrush to remove uncured resin between washing cycles.

  13. So I just printed the xp2 validation matrix and sure enough, it partially detached from the build plate in the same fashion

  14. Please post your brand and type of resin along with your current printer settings. Likely you need to increase your bottom exposure time.

  15. All of these are overexposed. Strangely the 2.8 looks more overexposed than 3.

  16. Before curing. But clean off excess resin first.

  17. I have taken it off supports and built directly on plate, increased bottom exposure and layers to 30s and 8, respectively, and re-leveled the build plate. The model still partially comes off the build plate in the same place as before

  18. What are you lift and retract settings?

  19. Unfortunately I don’t have any photos. I now see I was too hasty in throwing the failed prints away. I have printed other models successfully. The lattice cube file that comes with the printer was the first model printed and turned out great. I was also able to print the spiral rook between printing attempts of this test. I use a lift and retract speed of 2 mm/s and 3 mm/s. And I haven’t heard of this XP2 model

  20. https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-calibrate-resin-3d-prints-testing-for-resin-exposure/

  21. Generally, this is caused by the pull force from the FEP. The solution would be to use more supports, change orientation and try hollowing the model including drain holes.

  22. This is a much better photo! As I mentioned in you other post, you should gently push on the FEP from the bottom of the vat.

  23. The print was successful my that was just a small rest of the resin inside the vat I wanted to pull out after the "Tank Clean" Tool.

  24. In general, you should never have cured resin in the vat after a print. You likely had unsupported islands in your print.

  25. Unfortunately your photo is very blurry. So it is hard to tell what is happening.

  26. Hey sorry just noticed it. Basically it is a relatively thick film of resin which was cured through the "Tank Clean" Tool. The plastic spatula usally used getting these kind of things off can't get it off. I suppose I did something wrong in order. The vat didn't leak and I got it as clean as I could except for the big Blog.

  27. Many people will keep old supports to use as a "handle" when doing tank clean. Just insert the old supports to the bottom of the tank and then do the tank clean and pull the whole thing up with this handle.

  28. The white marks arent the printer. It just washed in IPA thats a little dirty then rinsed with water. So it has some marks.

  29. This looks very good. Get to printing.

  30. Elagoo mars 3 Elagoo standard grey Bottom exposure 35s Exposure time 2.5s Layers height 0.05

  31. From the photo, I would assume this is a mini base. I personally would print flat on the build plate if it fits. I don't think you are saving much resin. As well, the print time of a flat base will be much shorter. And you have already seen what issues occur using your current orientation and supports.

  32. Sadly it won't fit flat. My smaller bases I mostly print flat with a raft that works quite well. Thanks

  33. I would suggest not printing hollow and orient the model at the lowest angle for the base to fit.

  34. Next time, you might want to invest in some modeling putty like Tamiya putty or Milliput.

  35. This could be unrelated to your FEP change. This might have been an issue with supports or orientation. Can you post a screenshot of your supported model in your slicer? Have you successfully printed this model before?

  36. Not everything is a good candidate for resin 3d printing or even FDM printing.

  37. This model looks a bit overexposed. I would expect crisper details. Have you run an exposure validation test model?

  38. Thanks i do actually for the formation that you see i have a Phonon Mono X i was wondering if i can make two sets of it fit without resizing them on the build plate? I can make 24 for one build im trying to speed up the process a little bit

  39. Not sure I understand. Is that a preset grouping of models? Is there more room on the build plate?

  40. yes it is a group of 6 droids in four rows thats all i can fit is one i am wondering if i can put other maybe one or two lines of six b1 battle droids on the plate without over doing my printer

  41. I don't see a picture of your build plate. But you should be able to fill it. Make sure to properly level the plate to prevent failures.

  42. I would suggest printing the model flat on the build plate and adding a lot more supports to the uprights of the letters. If you can add these supports on the back, then perhaps any marks from support removal can be hidden.

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