Frustrated - towel rack keeps coming loose! how do I fix it permanently to the drywall?

  1. those anchors are usually pretty good at keeping things secure. But you obviously need more. Get the ones that have a spring loaded bracket that opens up behind the drywall.

  2. Yep, I had the same situation. The mess of a hole in the wall from previous anchors was good to fit in a large spring loaded toggle bolt. The toggle opens up inside the wall and grabs on undamaged parts of the drywall.

  3. Yup, used them for my closest and they are beasts. Feels bad drilling such a big hole but they aint going anywhere

  4. If I can't find a stud, and I can't sister a 2x4 behind the drywall to provide a solid surface to grip a screw, I use the beefiest toggle bolts I can find.

  5. Really? In my experience, the screw ones are way easier to use and should hold a towel rack... Although I always try to hit at least one stud so the anchor doesn't do all that much

  6. You can buy metal versions of the screw in wall anchors. Those are pretty durable and can hold a lot. Either will work though, and 99% of the included wall anchors in these types of kits are complete garbage.

  7. Cut a hole from stud to stud big enough to install 2x4 or 2x6 blocking board. Save the drywall cut out, install drywall back on the wall after block is in. Tape and mud, sand, paint. However that's a pretty advance diy but it sure sh!t ain't going anywhere!

  8. I had to do this for my toilet paper holder of all things. Grabbed tp one day and idk what I thought I was doing but I pulled a chunch of drywall out with the anchor.

  9. It is intimidating to do this if you never have before, and it is a certain amount of time and work and tools, plus products are required.... however, it is not rocket science, and if someone has time and some money for the supplies, it is certainly the most secure solution by far, it won't be going anywhere.

  10. There are a lot of good answers here - molly/toggle bolts will definitely do what you need. That said, if you want to be done with this and this is truly just for hand towels, you might be able to get away with command strips. It’s not ideal, but I know how frustrating it can be fighting with the same problem and making more and more holes.

  11. Toggle bolts. I went around and replaced the anchor for every towel rack, rail, toilet paper holder, etc. with toggle bolts as soon as we moved in. 100% don't regret.

  12. Short of cutting open the wall, put in 2x4, patching, and painting...... I recommend using SnapToggle or FlipToggle wall anchors. Also, I would recommend picking up a small pack of maybe 2 inch pan-head machine screws of the same size thread as the screws provided with the anchors. The heads look like ----D instead of ----<|

  13. Did several of those suggestions over the past 17 years. Unfortunately my 120 pound 5 foot tall wife believes you should pull the towel straight out instead of upward. Over this past weekend, I ended up doing what this guy initially said. I cut the drywall out (saved it to reinstall) installed a 2 x 4 between the studs and patched everything back up. I know it was the hard way but it is absolutely rocksolid now and I almost double dog dare her to rip it off the wall again. Lol Good luck in whatever you come up with!

  14. I second the togglers. They're not the easiest thing to use and I've lost more than one during installation, but man once they're in THEY'RE IN.

  15. The anchor screws really don't work well long term. They disturb a lot of the plaster in the drywall and that is weak to cyclical loads. No matter how careful you are installing them, they'll slowly creep out.

  16. I've tried many solutions over the year. Plastic, metal, bolts, screws, springs, dynamite. The Toggler is the real deal. You can anker your retirement funds on it.

  17. I second these. I had an awkward placement of a flat-screen TV mount that required at least one anchor between studs, and this worked perfectly to secure my heavy device. So a towel rack should be fine with these.

  18. If you can't find a drywall anchor that works for you, you can get a 1x4 board, 20" long, and then screw that into two studs. Then you've got something sturdy to attach your towel rack to.

  19. Who wants to live like that? That seems really crazy, just install a sturdy towel rack and remove the towel however you damn well please.

  20. I’ve used expanding foam and it has held up. Can find videos on YouTube on how to fix that are very helpful.

  21. If you have a router....use it to put a decent edge on a 1x4. Paint it. Screw the 1x4 to the studs with cabinet screws (or something similar), then screw the towel bar holder thingies into the 1x4. Yes, you will have to countersink the cabinet screws and putty over the holes, but this setup will last a lifetime.

  22. If you don't want to add a 2x4 behind the drywall between studs, I've had some pretty good success cutting a hole, inserting 4"x 4" square of 1/2" plywood behind the drywall, securing the plywood square with drywall screws, patching the hole and landing wood screws through the drywall and into the plywood. I don't know if that's an approved repair in

  23. Those plastic anchors are garbage. Get you some metal toggle bolts and use them instead. If installed correctly they aren't going any where.

  24. You should find the nearest stud to screw into. The constant pulling and vibrations take their toll over time.

  25. The best way to secure towel rack is is to install a 2x4 block between the studs. Then sheetrock tape and mud. Then your screws go directly into wood.

  26. You need to screw into the stud. Use 2" drywall screws. Account for the the thickness of drywall so that at least 3/4 inch of the screw goes into the stud. You can use a stud finder among other methods to find the stud. You may need an impact drill or use a power drill but then you'd have to drill a hole first before you insert the screw. You won't even need to use the mollies, or anchors as everyone else here calls them.

  27. Like others have mentioned a wall Molly will be your easiest option. If that fails, like in my girlfriend's house because her kids like to hang on the towel rack, I had to rig up a brace in the wall with 2x4 and use wood lag bolts to hold a custom welded steel towel rack on. Now they can do pull-ups on the towel rack to their hearts content.

  28. Replacing the anchor with something more robust will help, but I'd be looking at replacing or moving the rack. It's not geometrically very conducive to anchor mounting. Put it in a stud and you'll never have to worry about it again, or get a rack that has multiple mounting points rather than one with a giant lever.

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  30. Take your time do it right remove drywall from stud to stud and put 2x4 blocking in and patch drywall. Life time fix

  31. Just don't caulk it to the wall. That's what the old homeowner did in my house. My towel holder is crooked and caulked to the wall.

  32. have a look at Fischer duopower wall plugs ! Really strong and will leave a very small hole compared to all other solutions...

  33. Use a big toggle anchor. Or the best thing would be to add a 2x4 between the studs where you want to hang the towel bar and then drywall over it again. It would be easy since your wall doesn't have texture and then you could do pull-ups on it and it wouldn't get loose.

  34. Those should work fine unless you're really putting hard pressure down on the towel bar. The hole might be too big it should be tight in the wall before you drive the screws into them.

  35. if the wall gripper anchors don't work, mount the rack to a piece of stock and use multiple anchors to keep the stock attached to the wall. we have an old house and drapery rods were a nightmare due to the decades of repair above the windows. I made a wooden header, and mounted the drapes to that.

  36. If it’s hollow drywall (or even insulation) get some snap toggle anchors. I used them on several towel racks in an older house because the holes where the screws were had gotten very big, and since snap goggles need bigger holes, it was perfect. They are also like $6-8 ish for a pack of 6 at Home Depot. They won’t break unless someone is really yanking on them or hanging on it. I used them to mount my tv (a big one that is around 20-30 lbs or so) in drywall, as well as used them for one of the anchors on a barn sliding door I installed where there wasn’t a stud present. They work great

  37. Butterfly anchors, they also make a plastic heavy duty anchor that spreads as you screw into it with different strengths for drywall.

  38. Find studs and place a horizontal noggin between them. Attach your towel rail to that. You can use box alloy or wood or whatever

  39. Cut a square in the drywall between the studs where you'll mount the towel rail. Get a piece of 3/4" plywood about 2-3" taller and as wide as the width between the studs. Use pocket holes to secure it to the studs on either side or blocking behind it and then put drywall back on and patch. You make it taller so the drywall above and below has a backing. Without this, the drywall joint will forever crack on that line. Now you have a secure backing to screw your towel rail into.

  40. Find the next closest stud. Cut towel rack down and mount to two studs. Drywall anchors on a towel rack is a safety issue. Anything arms reach from a shower should be able to support a falling person

  41. I grab a 1”x4” piece of oak and round the ends router the edges with an ogee mark wear the studs are predrill 3/8” countersinks. Stain it then mount it use flush or button plugs to fill the holes then mount the towel rack to that. In rentals I’ve run piece of pine the whole width and only routed the top and bottom and painted it.

  42. Not impossible at all. If an adult slips, trips, or uses the bar to pull their drunk self up from the floor, that toggle bolt can and will pull through the Sheetrock. In ordinary towel removal use, it’ll be fine.

  43. Toggle bolts might work, but if you really want to fix this problem, open up the drywall and add solid blocking.

  44. If you don't feel comfortable cutting the drywall to install a sister board that spans the studs then patching/sanding/painting, then it's perfectly fine to install a field expedient version of it over the drywall.

  45. I've wraggled all the above options. Hate them all. Discovered the Alligator Togglers in a kit with screws and drill bit about 18 years ago. Never looked back. Use them for everything that needs an anchor. When I need a decorative screw head, for something like a coat hook with an anchor behind it - I paint the ones in the kit or find an appropriate diameter screw size for the two toggler sets I have. They work in drywall, tile, lathe and plaster and some other stuff. I love they have a couple different sizes if hanging something beefy like a TV. They've held perfectly. Never ripped out wall. I've also nipped them down on the end if I inadvertently hit a stud to protect the drywall after using dodgy studfinders. And extracted nicely to the same hole drilled when we needed to remove them. Lowes and Amazon carry them. You won't find many 5 star reviews on products, but these are near perfect and carry a 5 star.

  46. I had the same issue with those toggle bolts rust were rated to 45 lbs etc….still failed. So…I went nuts, cut and out 10” studs in the space…refinished the Sheetrock and just screwed the towel rack accessory plate there….it have not failed since it is screwed on the stud.

  47. I took down the towel rack in my bathroom and found that one side was well a 3" drain pipe behind the drywall that was the drain for the upstairs toilet. Needless to say the screw had rusted and deteriorated.

  48. I tried toggle bolts but they didn't work well with my crumbly drywall. Said F it, cut hole in wall, and added a backing 2x4 to mount to. A little extra work, but worht it.

  49. Toggler through drywall and a metal stud is solid. Even a regular toggle bolt is surprisingly secure through a metal stud. I would suggest finishing up by hand-tightening, as a drill with the the clutch set wrong can destroy the spring-loaded toggle behind the wall. They don’t make them like they used to.

  50. Toggle bolts. Or if you ever have access to the inside of the wall screw a couple of two by fours in there of blocking then you’ll never have to worry about it again

  51. Cut out the drywall between studs and add a 2x4 brace in the cavity, put the drywall back in , screw the bracket into that and youre done. It's one repair instead of a lifetime of them.

  52. Because it's a small bathroom and the width of that wall is the width of the sink only. To one side there is a door and to the other side a mirror. It's probably just about 1.5 feet

  53. I only ask because I don't see it in the picture. Just to confirm, you are putting a screw in there right? You're not just using the dry wall anchor by itself?

  54. Drill a hole in the wall, use an anchor that’s slightly smaller than the hole, wait for it to fall out, then repeat. Do this over and over and over. Eventually you’re guaranteed to realize that you’re a fucking dumbass and even Reddit can’t save you

  55. This is a way more complicated solution, but if you can match the color/style of your cabinetry, put a "plate" on the wall that's big enough to span one or two studs then attach to that plate.

  56. Cut a piece of drywall out and put a pice of wood behind it. Any anchor will eventually come loose. Small patch after you install the wood and your good to go.

  57. Hm, those screw-in anchors are usually very sturdy and can hold a lot of weight. I've used these a lot and when a screw-in anchor pops out of a wall it usually makes much more of a mess. If they aren't holding the towel rack then the likely reason is either there's more weigh than the anchor is rated for (either the rack is heavy or someone is pulling on it) or something is happening during install.

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