/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY question, get an answer (July 31, 2022)

  1. Just got some Gat Pro Red (pre lubed) switches and my first impressions are very smoothe, nice weight and sounding, but feel kind .. sludgey? Like someone's tipped coke over my keyboard while I was a way and its slightly sticky .. like the upstroke takes 0.02 of a second longer than it should. My previous switches where were stock akko speed silver. Is what I'm feeing a product of lube? or factory lube? or gaterons in general?

  2. I was talking to one of my friends recently and suggesting that he get into custom keyboards but he responded saying that they brought a lot of latency to gaming. Personally I haven't noticed blatant latency on my keyboard (black ink switches and a instant60) but I wouldn't have any better keyboard to compare it to since I was playing on a rubber dome laptop keyboard. Is there any way I can test to see if there is latency? And if there is latency, what can I do to reduce it and make it better for gaming? I wanted to make this an actual post because it seemed too long but it gets automod'd.

  3. Test latency? I can't really think of that. But any keyboard that is wired and plugged in will be good enough for all gaming except rhythm gaming, due to polling rate being important for that. Polling rate is kind of like a loop that checks if you've inputted a key or not. Low polling rate will be slower and high polling rate faster. To change this you'd either have to have an inbuilt program that allows you to change it, but that's only really necessary on lower end boards. Since most customs come with QMK/VIA support, it's always going to come with 1000hz polling rate (which is good), since QMK firmware has that by default now.

  4. I just ordered my first mechanical keyboard that’s hot swappable and am looking into lubing my switches to reduce the clicky sounds it produces and make it sound more smooth. What does lubing the switches vs the stabilizers provide for your keyboard?

  5. Don't lube clickies. Why buy a click to try to get rid of the click y'know? Just buy tactiles at that point, or even silent clickies (those exist).

  6. Those don't exist, as parts aren't universal, except ironically for tray-mount 60%s. Those are bad anyways, they produce inconsistent sound.

  7. I can get 90 Akko CS Crystals for 40 dollars off amazon or I can get 70 Gateron North Poles for 55 dollars with lightly prelubed. Which should I go for if I want thock? And is the North Poles worth that extra cost? Also in a video comparing the two it seems like Aqua Kings are more thocky, and Ice candies are even thockier than them?

  8. I mean looking at what you've said why not research it yourself? You seem to know what you want. We can't really tell you if a switch is thocky or not alone, the sound of a switch largely depends on what circumstances it's in.

  9. I am looking for a full-size (104-108) keyboard with the following features: Hot-swappable, RGB, detachable cable, and a built-in USB hub. Wireless capabilities are optional, but not necessary. The closest things I had found were the Royal Kludge RK100, Asus ROG Strix Flare II Animate, Redragon K550, and the Keychron Q6 and K10. There were a couple more, but each were missing one of the necessary features, just like the above keyboards. If there is one, I would greatly appreciate it if you could inform me.

  10. built-in USB hub is a "gamer " kb feature its not popular and doesnt exist in many kb to begin with . and even then most kb that have them are phasing them out as it a feature that barley anyone uses so they r starting to ditch it

  11. What is the most efficient way to remove lube from prelube stab/switch. I tried dishwater soup and toothbrush method, it is cleaned but it takes so much time. 3 2u stab and 1 6.25u stab take around 1 or 1.5 hours to clean prelube off.

  12. Wanted to try out the PE foam mod, I have some lying around from a keyboard I bought in the past but I'm worried that it might be conductive and break the pcb of the board I have. How do I know if the foam I'll be using is good?

  13. Generally white PE foam is not guranteed to be safe, pink PE foam is safer, and black PE foam is completely nonconductive. If in doubt and you want to be safe, you can buy nonconductive PE foam by searching that up, though I've never seen anyone fry their pcb from using the normal white foams (and it's very common to do so)

  14. Ive never taken part in a group buy before and have a couple questions. I am interested in the GMK Diner keycap set that is on KBDfans, I'm just not sure what the status means. It goes as follows:

  15. Once the set ships out to the group buy purchasers, there may be extras that will be for sale for a slightly higher price.

  16. Anyone know of an MDA profile keycap set with shine through keys? Can't find any, but absolutely loving the MDA profile after switching from OEM to XDA and now to this!

  17. there is no MDA shine thru caps and amazon has a handful of XDA shine thru caps this is due to shine thru keycaps and very unpopular in the aftermarket they also sell for dirt cheap so there is no profit in making molds for new profiles to not make money 99% of shine thru keycaps are OEM profile

  18. How should I go about building my first keyboard? I love the ones I've seen on here and want to build one for myself. I would love it if it had Bluetooth since I would use it with my MacBook.

  19. If you don't want to go full in all-metal board custom for your first build there are plenty of options with bluetooth - a Lot of lower mid-range plastic case boards have bluetooth connectivity, wireless w/ a dongle, or both. Stuff like the rk series, the TH80/NJ80, and the feker IK75 are all boards with wired, wireless, and bluetooth connectivity which can sound pretty decent with the right build and mods.

  20. If you want to go full custom you should probably just give up on Bluetooth tbh. But Keychron is a good option all around as a play to start into the hobby.

  21. Can anyone recommend a set of basic black keycaps (with RGB shine through) that has a super professional/clean font? Something like the font on a MacBook Pro, Logitech G series, or Razer BW.

  22. So I'm in Tech school right now for the military and the desks we have aren't huge so I bought a 60% keyboard to save on space. They don't have the function key row nor a number pad, which is fine because it has the FN key to still use those functions. The problem is, my FN key seems to not work. I bought gamestops line of mechanical keyboards, ATRIX, because it was on sale for 20 bucks and they have mx browns. So I figured, why not? I looked online for drivers and there aren't any so the ones that installed when I plugged it in seem to suffice for everyone else. There's no proprietary software either, and the help guide only shows how to use the FN key to change the lighting and such. When I click the FN key down it acts as a right click. Please help me with this, I've looked online to no avail and gamestop's support was no help either. Thank you <3

  23. I use a set of OSA profile Akko key caps and I love them. What other brands use the same (or equivalent) profile that I should check out?

  24. OSA is an akko exclusive profile only other profile that may be similar is SA ( taller ) or KAT ( shorter )

  25. Outemu hot swap socket short be practilly infinite swaps they r very similar to milmax sockets . as long as ur using switches that fit ( outmeu,akko switches ) u should be fine

  26. i dont think there are any hotswap pcb's that fit the berg at the moment. just a reminder that most parts arent standardized within the hobby.

  27. I’m looking for a new keyboard and stumbled across the Zoom65 and it’s nearly perfect for what I’m looking for (despite being only 65% and sold out everywhere…)

  28. From what I've heard the manufacturers of the zoom plan to keep the board regularly restocked by mid august. So if you're willing to wait it out, it's an option!

  29. this isnt a mechanical board. caps for rubber domes arent standardized if im not mistaken, so you dont really have options.

  30. Trying to help my son with his first keyboard build. We bought the kit linked below. It has LEDs built into the motherboard, and they get in the way of the mechanical switches we bought separately. Are there different switches, that leave room for the LEDs, that we should be using instead?

  31. you'll most likely be going for tactile switches. if you want the more "tactile" feeling of a clicky switch, there is 1 switch on the market which is a silent clicky. the kailh box mute jades are something youd want to check out, but you wont find it in any prebuilt board

  32. I’ve been using Cherry MX Brown with an Fnatic Streak in recent years, but I seem to make a heck of a lot of typos with it.. is that a common complaint with Brown switches, or am I just getting old and can’t type?

  33. I don’t think that switch will help. If you need a heavier press cherry clear is the better alternative. I’m sure there are a bunch of non-cherry brand tactile switches people prefer, but I dont know em.

  34. I just finished lubing my switches, and 3 of them no longer work. There is no bent pins and the switch leafs seems fine. I tried wiping off some of the lube but it didn’t help. What could be the problem? What do I do?

  35. My first mechanical keyboard.. I figure I’ll go for a barebones Keychron Q3 once I can get an ISO layout in Australia and build from there.

  36. If you don’t absolutely need wireless and you are willing to mod stuff, the evga z15 can be very good with some switch mods, maybe key caps, and durock clip ins are like a match made in heaven for that board. It looks good excluding the removable badge and if you take the bronze switches and remove the click spring, can sound good and feel good as well (and be under 100 total if that really matters). It could be a fun project board

  37. I don't understand how adding orings makes actuation distance shorter? I get how it stops bottoming out but I don't see how actuation is affected.

  38. The zoom has a 500hz polling rate on bluetooth mode - This equates to around 2 milliseconds of delay, which from what I've seen isn't too noticeable. A lot of people play on 125hz keyboards when wired (8ms delay) without even really noticing it.

  39. Hi!, Which amazon switch film can I use for gateron red optical switches? I dont wanna risk getting a bad batch of switches and them not being sturdy/stable

  40. Asking again since I still haven't found many options. I'm looking for a "full size" mechanical keyboard but without the function row.

  41. Search terms for this would be FRL1800 (F-Rowless 1800), searching that up shows a couple options, though a lot of them are groupbuys which have already gone by. There's quite a few options with the numpad with plus and enter, but without the delete, home and end keys cluster. However, some of them have small macro clusters above the arrows that could be reprogrammed to your keys of choice. The balance and the jiot seem closest to what you have in mind.

  42. I don’t think this exists. Just get the the rest and compromise on the function row. This probably won’t even make the board physically larger. Or you could just get a 60% and the numpad separately.

  43. Going to be be upgrading from my magicforce 68 with outemu browns, and I'm looking for recommendations on 60% around $150 ish

  44. Hi! I am currently using a Hot-swap KBD75 V3 with SA keycaps from Kono, and the bottom of my N key is slightly rubbing against the top of my spacebar. Does anyone have any advice or any ideas for how I can fix this?

  45. Hi all, looking for some help programming RGB lighting for an NK87 Entry Edition board. This is advertised as per-switch RGB and are editable in VIA. Setup was good, everything works fine except the only colours that show are between red and yellow. No blues, greens, purples or pinks. I can move the RGB selector to those colours in VIA but on the board itself it just changes between red and yellow. Even using Layer 1 to cycle through different hue options gives the same result.

  46. First of all, let me start off by saying I’m new to the hobby. I bought my first mechanical keyboard two days ago, and let’s just say… I’m hooked. Lol.

  47. keychron has the keychron q3 (tkl, gray/retro gray) option, hotswap, has software for remapping layers macros etc)

  48. I'm slowly getting desperate -- put my Saka68 ISO together today but I can't get an even remotely correct firmware working: The top row (ESC, 1, 2, 3...) always ends up being TAB, Q, W, E, etc. The entire second row is dead. Third to fifth rows are mostly correct, except for some minor things with the arrow keys and the 2x2 block.

  49. No, the gk61 plate does not allow for screw in stabs. It would be better to buy a new plate as opposed to getting compatble stabs that won't work as well. You can just buy a cheap plate off of Amazon,

  50. Querry. I work 10-12 hour days at my computer and I have been looking at getting a comfortable keyboard for work that wont piss off the office. I currently use a K800 logitech I enjoy the low profile keys but I want something smaller on my desk that will also be low profile. preffereably tkl.

  51. I use the varmillo Miya pro at work and I think it’s great, I love the layout and the quality is solid.

  52. I'm trying to look for the best keycap profile or set for being able to vertically press two keys at once. For example, I'd like to press the O and L keys together with just one of my fingers. So far, the best I can do is press in between the keys which isn't so comfortable and pretty difficult to get under a tight amount of time. I've thought about XDA profile key caps, but I'm still not fully sure. Would appreciate any sort of feedback

  53. I've been wanting to replace my current keyboard with a better one, nothing is wrong with it just need a smaller one like a TKL so I can move my mouse around more. I've been thinking of buying the One 3 RGB TKL ducky keyboard but Im not sure if its worth it or if I should get another keyboard. Any thoughts on the keyboard and if there is a better one out there.

  54. I would advise against the one 3 tkl i would recommend the kbdfans tiger 80 lite over it. You will have to buy switches and keycaps but this gives you the option to get far higher quality parts.

  55. Hello. I have an AOC GK500 mechanical keyboard. I entered a CS:GO match and it went perfectly. But out of nowhere I felt an enormous delay on the keys. I exited the game and when I tried to type on Google I noticed that I could no longer type quickly, meaning I had to wait half a second to be able to press another key. Does anyone know what it could be from?

  56. I have the GMMK Pro with brass plate and banana splits. I just ordered durock v2 stabs and lube and am thinking of doing some other mods while I have it disassembled.

  57. i'd say try it and see if you like the sound with the tape, if you don't its just tape and you can remove it

  58. A couple things, the gmmk pro has issues with aftermarket stabs fitting in the plates, the brass plate makes this virtually impossible, you will have to file down your durock v2s in order for them to fit. Also brass creates a more high pitched clacky sound, the exact opposite of thock.

  59. Are there any macropads with knobs that are relatively plug and play? I’m trying to make a remote for my media and I’m a total noob.

  60. I have the Keychron K2 wireless that I want to mod out. Is it safe to use PE static-free foam on this board with a battery? If so, what is the safest way to do so?

  61. As long as it's nonconductive PE foam you shouldn't have any problems. Just stick a thin layer between your plate and pcb, optionally cut holes where the largest switch pins go in (the metallic pins that really matter should cut through the foam, but you can pierce holes for them too) and you should be good to go. Easier than that would be to buy a compatible pre-cut PE foam for your keyboard, with holes for all the switches cut out - though, there isn't an option for every keyboard on the market. More accessible than that would be buying PE foam switch pads- individually cut small pads of PE foam that you stick onto your pcb where each of the switches go.

  62. I’m looking to buy a keyboard for someone who likes clicky and tactile, with keycaps similar to those on the Logitech G213.

  63. ABS is a type of printing on the keys, not a keycap profile. Switch an click have good guides on what these things mean.

  64. I am completely new to mechanical keyboards, and I wanted to ask if I had everything I needed for my first build and if everything I'm getting would work together.

  65. For stabs just remember you have to use pcb mount clip ins like cherry or TX clip ins. If you go with cherry swap the wires for durock wires

  66. I have a Keychron K4. The stock keycaps are hard to see the lettering when the LEDs are off. Can someone recommend some keycaps (English - US) that still allow the LEDs to shine through, but is easier to read?

  67. Does anybody know if keebcats is legit? I plan on buying the TTC Quick Silver switches from them and I wanna make sure they're legit.

  68. I have an Akko PC75B Plus. Is it possible to make custom mappings for the FN layer in the software? I want to change a key to be "Print Screen" when I press FN and whatever key I choose, but it can't figure out how to do it.

  69. Never mind, I figured it out. It is called "Custom Mode" in the software instead of "FN Layer" or something.

  70. Does anyone have a current source for G915 TKL KalihChoc-like keycaps? I have a dremmel, just unsure which to purchase.

  71. I can't seem to figure out what I did with my switch puller, and I want to swap out my switches for some new ones that I picked up. I know I can get a cheap one off of aliexpress, or similar, but I'm wondering if there's anything better out there than the simple piece of metal or plastic with the tabs on the bottom, perhaps something that has a better handle on it so that it doesn't take me three tries to get a switch out (yeah, I've had a rather specific problem several times with the pullers that I've got).

  72. Get silent blacks. The have a stiffer spring so much less mushy, I use them myself and they are much much better than reds.

  73. Have a look at low-profile boards, they use different switches that are shorter with a slightly lower travel distance and come in different types like normal switches.

  74. what would be a good mechanical keyboard with Cherry Reds available worldwide (or at least, in Brazil)? My budget is $100 but I can strecht it to around $150 if necessary

  75. My W and Q keys were not working properly (I pressed them but only sometimes it would respond) so I switched the switches with the ones from keys I don't use often.

  76. Aqua Kings or the new Gateron North Poles. Tecsee also makes some good clear switches (Ice candy?). I will remind you that switches are only one of many factors which make a keyboard “Thocky”. You could have deep sounding switches but a clacky keyboard depending on how you build it.

  77. The C2 is a great option - when people say it's not great out of the box, it'll still blow away all the other ones in the list.

  78. Hello everyone, was looking for advice before making my first purchase, Mods please remove if this is the wrong place to ask. I found a Custom 65% for $350 CAD, here are the specs:

  79. Based off of availability and pricing in the US (that’s all I know) this is a bit on the expensive side for what you’re getting. But it’s not like you’re getting ripped off.

  80. So I'm a complete newbie to building boards from scratch. I currently have an Anne Pro 2 that was my introductory keyboard into the hobby, but I'm looking to snag a 40% and a numpad, but besides the Vortex Core, it seems that to get what I want it'll have to be custom. With that comes the "OLKB PREONIC KEYBOARD MX KIT V3" currently on

  81. can you tell me how to get 100% accuracy i know how to touch type. do you guys have any more ideas on how i can i have about 76% right now. thanks.

  82. Type slower until you consistently get 100% accuracy. Then speed up from there always holding yourself to 100% accuracy. Personally I would aim for only like 97-98% accuracy just for my own sanity. Also expect this to take weeks if not months of practice to get back up to speed.

  83. I just got a Feker IK75, love the keyboard but windows thinks it’s software is a virus. Is there an alternative software I can use?

  84. I have a razer huntsman mini, i love the switches, but i need a bit bigger keyboard, i was thinking about the huntsman TE, can i just take the mini switches and put them into the TE keyboard? Thanks!

  85. Not unless it's a hot-swap board, or you've some experience soldering. If it's the latter, I'd say it's usually not a good idea to disassemble brand boards, as they're usually a headache to take apart.

  86. anyone used g pro reds / yellows and the akko jelly stuff that could give me a comparison? Or say whether g pro reds / yellows would be a recommend for gaming? (currently using akko silver and feel like the bottom out is very harsh, almost like hitting two bricks together. really harsh clack that resonates up my fingers? very hard to explain. Looking for something smoothe and soft.

  87. If you're looking for a smooth switch with a soft bottom out it might be worth considering a dampened switch, such as Healios or Durock Silent Linears.

  88. Have you tried (1) a heavier spring, or (2) typing softer, or (3) tactile switches? If you want something softer, you can also try a keyboard that has a leaf spring mount and/or flex cuts.

  89. probably any switch with more than 3 mm travel would feel better for you - since the akko silvers bottom out at 3 mm that might be why it feels harsh - the reds/yellows should be 4 mm

  90. I have split mech ergos with standard TKL layouts at home and work. I am traveling more and more and was wondering if anyone knows of an off-the-shelf split low profile mech in a 65 or 75% form factor? I found the MD650L but that is OOO and uses less than desirable Cherry ML switches.

  91. Which Hotswap should I get? I was looking at Epomaker TH68, Akko 3068B and Gamkay LK67. All sound great but each has their own flaws. Is there a clear best out of these 3? Is there a better option for around the same price that I missed?

  92. Are there any hotswap PCBs that will fit a Ducky One 2 TKL case? I bought one used and the previous owner friend the PCB. USB-C would be nice as well.

  93. typically outside of tray mounted 60% boards, PCBs/cases/plates can't be swapped since there's no standard for them

  94. Can ayone recommend me a mechanical keyboard with a qwertz layout in a price range from 100 to 120 Euros, prefferable with cherry red switches?

  95. You can get the Akko 3068B plus direct from Akko's German store for 95€, it doesn't have Cherry switches but Akko switches are generally quite well regarded and the board is hot-swappable so if you really have to have Cherry Reds specifically you can pick them up from Candykeys or mykeyboard.

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