Is this common? Clever or crazy?

  1. This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban

  2. I know a few experienced woodworkers who use this technique for molding or concave areas. But they also use push sticks because yikes....

  3. In high-school the woodshop teacher also taught ASL. She always focused on using push sticks and if you did something risky you couldn't use saws that week, and had 2 fingers taped together so you "lost" a finger for a few days and had to explain to people that you did a dumb.

  4. Push sticks!! Amen. We were always taught machines have no sympathy. They’ll take your thumb and keep on keeping on.

  5. I know nothing about woodworking. This popped up on my home, as this sub does occasionally (I imagine because of an interest in crafts and Big Brother overhearing lumber talk due to my SO working at lowes). This was terrifying to watch.

  6. I used to love wood working and carpentry but man a table saw still scares the shit out of me. When I was 19 my boss had the table saw on the ground and he just made a cut. Went to stand up and fell. Tried to catch the fall with his hands and spinning blade fucked up a finger. That shit was gross. I was surprised it was still attached.

  7. I honestly expected the "push stick" comment to be pinned to the top. Dude is lucky that's all I'm gonna say

  8. Is it weird i don't think I would use a push stick for this application? Can't be certain from video, but it seems like something I would want max control for. And it looks like you can keep 2-3" of wood between myself and the blade. Do you ever feel like the stick can make it less safe?

  9. Yeah last summer one of the carpenters was doing a deck at his house on the weekend and was too confident in his skills; he cut his thumb and index finger above the first knuckles completely off and his middle down to the bone. Stupid bastard had gloves on and it pulled into the blade and it wasn't new enough to have the stop-lock. He's back after 6 months and it looks like they glued vienna sausages to his hand. DON'T FUCK WITH POWER TOOLS.

  10. Another thing to consider are the lateral loads on the bearings which they aren't designed for. Once and a while fine, but if you do this all the time I would imagine your bearings will wear out much quicker, then you'll have a floppy arbor....and that just embarrassing.

  11. A little better to tilt the blade into the cut, the teeth do more of the work like they usually would during a normal cut.

  12. unless you are absolutely slamming this thing through at an inappropriate feed rate this lateral load you're worrying about is just not happening. it just appears as if it is happening. the kerf is doing all the cutting and the loading is in the usual direction.

  13. Usually its the blade that eats it, losing teeth, that or a belt, but you can burn a motor up if you try to take too heavy a cut and feed it too fast. If you use a reasonable depth of cut and feed rate you can go straight across a blade without damaging the saw. That being said, I wouldn't attempt it in Purpleheart, Ipe, or any other rock hard wood, but it's fine in softer woods

  14. If you're going to do this you're supposed to do it 1/16" at a time so there is no lateral pressure on the bearings.

  15. If you were gonna do something like this, I would suggest making two rip cuts to crrate a rabbet to remove the bulk of the waste material first. Or if you really want to be careful, do a series of dados, adjusting the blade height after each cut to approximate the final shape, then do this technique

  16. Ideally you are supposed to angle the blade as well. Which in theory should lighten the load on the arbor…but ultimately it’s a tool, a quality saw will not even come close to wearing out with the minimal wear this technique applies to it. I have a mid range jet that has been put through the ringer for 20+ years (bought 15 ago) and still cuts like butter. No wobbly arbor to speak of.

  17. That's pretty fantastic. When I first saw OP's video, it totally freaked me out. I do believe video OP posted has a few issues: like flesh push stick, but also his cut seems to be deep enough that the blade is making a loud clattering sound.

  18. Cove cuts can definitely be done safely. Probably safer than the giant router bit or shaper bit needed to make a cove this large. I’d improve my work-holding jig and use some push pads though!

  19. Yeah, but at that rate, this is what routing tables were made for. Just use a router, the person in OPs video will keep their fingers longer.

  20. This technique is totally safe if done correctly. Obviously hands so close to the exposed blade is dangerous. There are no kickback precautions shown.

  21. I've done this and it works fine but I'll be damned if I'm not doing it without a jig to prevent it from launching that thing back at me.

  22. Yeah it's super common to make cuts like this. Sure there are fancy tools that do this, but most home shops won't have them so it's commonly taught. Our shop teacher taught us all those old "grandpa tricks" in the early 00's. And he did it with a healthy dose of, "this is how you'll see your dad/grandpa do it. If you do that, you're on sanding/sweeping duty. Here's how to do it and keep all your digits!"

  23. Pretty common wood working technique. Have been a professional for many years. You take many incremental cuts. The only differences I would do is- 1( I would have mounted the fence the opposite direction, pointing toward the left rather than the right. It's just personal preference in your stance and hand position while pushing the wood through the saw. 2) I would have taken a lot shallower cut. When I have done this, I have taken 1/16 inch passes, and this guy is easily taking off double that.

  24. It’s all three! This is how I make bar elbow rails. Much better than paying $15+ per linear foot! And if you fixture it right with feather boards it can be very safe. Not for beginners though.

  25. Exactly. My boss has done this for years with no issue, but it definitely is a little sketch. Whatever, it's his fingers not mine.

  26. Somewhere in my library is an article that focuses on the math so you can set the exact angle to get the radius dialed in just so

  27. thats what I love about standardized tools, you can find some weird old book where some guy figured out exactly how to do what you want to do, unfortunately lots of the media did not make the jump to digital. but it makes picking up old woodworking books at swapmeets.

  28. Common - probably less so than it used to be. This is a well known method and was more commonly used before the ready availability of large, powerful routers and an abundance of large bits to go with them.

  29. Not the end of the world since it’s a soft wood, but yeah, push stick and also a secondary fence for the other side of the piece after the blade so it doesn’t twist.

  30. It's a wonder this sub actually makes anything with how afraid they are of everything. OP - this is fine; in-fact it's impressive as fuck how dialed in that Ridgid saw is.

  31. I've done one or two things like this and I am always aware of where my hands are, where the pressure is, where my hands would go if they slipped and what would happen to my hands if they piece kicked out. My hands are never over or pushing toward a blade. Also, some of the cool and useful "push sticks" with specific designs and uses, gripping surfaces, etc. that you can buy now are much better than the "push sticks" we bandsawed out of scrap plywood in my youth.

  32. Thank you. It's threads like this that remind me this sub is probably 90% people who don't actually do any woodworking on a regular basis, even fewer with industrial/production experience.

  33. I don’t use the tablesaw so maybe I’m talking out of my ass, isn’t putting your hand across the sawblades path a really bad idea?

  34. I wonder if there are any woodworking youtubers with prominent bodily damage from their tools.

  35. The only problem is his hand instead of a block or stick, but everyone is freaking out about using the table saw like that. It’s been done this way for as long as the table saw has been around. People are dumb.

  36. Well, the saying goes if it works it ain't stupid. But some precautions against stupidity like doing only small finishing bits or special technique or order of doint it properly wont hurt you either.

  37. I'd say common with tricks and tips I've found on YouTube University. Easy way to get those type of cuts and trim without the need of a router.

  38. I wouldn't say it's common but it's far from crazy. The technique is in the owners manual for my old Craftsman 113.

  39. Advanced techniques, but not crazy. Like others have said there are some unusual ways this can damage you or your saw if you try to use too much, or go too fast. But table saws are super versatile with a lot of tricks like this.

  40. I've done it too, for cutting some coves that could be duplicated with a 10-inch blade profile (turned about 20 deg.) but not with any commercially available router bit that I could find. It works and it's pretty safe if done carefully. I agree you need a push stick or push blocks, you shouldn't pass your hand that near to the blade, and you probably should have fences on both sides.

  41. I have used this trick perpendicular to the blade to cut a 5" radius in walnut. Took shallow passes. Used a pusher stick. Worked awesome.

  42. They're potentially dangerous, but quite safe if used correctly and with proper safety equipment installed. They're also very useful for making very precise cuts. The tablesaw in the video has no safety equipment at all and I wouldn't use it.

  43. Oh my god how many of you have actually used a table saw? A push stick is more often than not more dangerous. You need control over the work, and a push stick doesn’t offer that whatsoever

  44. The blade needs to be sharp. The blade cuts the same, but there is a limit to the angle. Its all part of the set-up.

  45. It’s not going to hurt the blade. Go slow and let the blade cut, don’t force it. Also, when cutting coves like this, generally the blade is angled into the cut, so it’s cutting on the top of the tooth just like it would if you were doing a normal rip or cross cut. As you get the cove deeper you either adjust the angle of the blade up, or just raise the blade, depends on the shape and length of the cove you want.

  46. This is an old school technique, I would feel a lot more comfortavle with another fence on the front side where the camera is (this would brevent the puece from advancing and taking too deep a cut), I would say that the depth of cut is a little deep, but it looks like pine, and the cut sound isnt horrible.

  47. Been doing this for years. Easy way to replicate large exterior moldings. A lot quicker than trying to find something close or custom ordering.

  48. its called cove cutting. it does work relatively safely, if the fence is locked tight. however, that dude should use some push sticks. Also, as in the video, you should never do this at a 90° angle, always slightly push into the teeth, not directly sideways.

  49. Matthias Wandel has a bunch of clever hacks like this. He used this exact trick to make a bunch of molding, and he rigged up a drill with a rollerblade wheel as an auto-feed system. You should check out his youtube channel.

  50. He looked pretty careful if you ask me and had plenty of area for a firm grip, with nothing overhanging on the back side to get sliced off.

  51. I’ve done that to match old plaster crown mouldings but I wouldn’t buzz off that much at a time. Just take off a little bit at a time and do multiple passes through the saw.

  52. I’ve done this a few times, but I use Grippers for feeding and I have a Sawstop so a bit more safe than this. It is an appropriate way to make coves though.

  53. Yea, I have seen this process before, but the people doing it had it completely jigged up with everything stable and hands/fingers were nowhere near the blade.

  54. The problem is the tooth angle. This obviously works, but a straight on cut with a 45* bevel will be easier on the saw blade.

  55. Could be worse, it could be a radial arm saw. If you look in old dewalt user manual this was actually shown in rip mode on the arm saw.

  56. We learned this in cabinetmaking school. Sure it's not the most common thing bc you'd use a router table most of the time but if you know what you're doing it's not inherently unsafe and I would consider it standard practice.

  57. Very common. Takes some math (or experimenting) to find the right angle and blade height, but I've made large coves this way.

  58. ER doctor and woodworker here. Every time I see a table saw injury I always ask the patient how it happened. Two most common answers are that they didn’t use a push stick or that they used the machine in a way it wasn’t intended to be used.

  59. As someone who tried to short cut something and make a quick cut on a chop saw recently and was lucky enough to only break his finger, no thank you.

  60. I've done coves but I'm also a subscriber to right tool for right job and used plenty of tools that are designed for this work liiike shapers

  61. If I caught my guys doing that…..wouldn’t be good. Buy a router…..low on money, go to the pawn shop….BUY A ROUTER. That method is fraught with problems, danger, blade flex(inaccuracy), fence movement, material jumping….yeah…. Dumb method. If this was the way to make a profile, the material suppliers would be doing this…..they don’t.

  62. My high school valedictorian, cruising senior year, 3 weeks before graduation, lopped off all 8 fingers and half of both thumbs in shop class with a table saw. Yikes.

  63. I was taught that trick in a 1997 woodshop class in high school. We made a jewelry/storage box using only a table saw. It was a fantastic project and learning experience.

  64. I learned this trick from an old timer and have used a few times with great results. However, I also learned to use push sticks. Don’t put your hand over the blade like that.

  65. My high school woodworking teacher showed us this technique. He was showing us how to make a moulding with a cove. He used a feather board and push sticks for safety.

  66. Pushing practically sideways on a blade that's meant to be fed head on. Blade could shatter and send metal pieces flying.

  67. If you cut extremely slowly, the bearings might not give out and your saw might not explode in your face and take your unprotected fingers with them.

  68. I'll never forget the day I had a fourth year journeyman tell some new guy what to do with a table saw and what not to do. When he got to the part of what not to do, he basically cut his thumb off, like from the palm of his hand down to his wrist. That was the day I decided I no longer wanted to be a carpenter.

  69. All these people sitting on reddit dog piling the first chance they get to tell someone how they should do something. Y'all are frothing at the mouths the first instance you get to tell someone they're doing something dangerous.

  70. How many commenting on this post have actually tried this method? Been doing it for years with out so much as a single kickback. Never binded the saw because it's not running between the fence and blade directly or parallel with the fence so there isn't as much force on the wood. A seasoned woodwork will always check for grain and knot positioning before running a piece thru the saw or at least I would hope they would as that is the only reason I could see it being as dangerous as all the comments seem to think it is. Not completely safe for the inexperienced but I've personally never had a problem. I also do alot of free hand work on the table saw with no fence. Heaven forbid!

  71. The people saying use a push stick have never used a saw in their lives. I’ve been using a table saw for 20 years and there’s nothing wrong with this except not using a table router to start with a smoother surface to sand. (aka, going for the views in place of needing to make a profit). But seriously, with a good 3-4inches of flat, square material on the table, you’re not looking at anything too dangerous , definitely nothing a professional can’t handle

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Author: admin